How did you guys remove the rattle from the back?
#1
How did you guys remove the rattle from the back?
I removed the top portion of the convertible tray. The skinny piece that is towards the back of the tray. It was rattling SO badly I had to remove it. Now I'm getting some minor rattles from the tray itself.
Also, a little off topic, but does anyone have any ideas how to get some sound into the cabin when the top is down? The top completely muffles any bass from the trunk!
Also, a little off topic, but does anyone have any ideas how to get some sound into the cabin when the top is down? The top completely muffles any bass from the trunk!
#3
Originally Posted by jwa4378,Jul 18 2005, 05:58 PM
dynamat....or the equivalent thereof....
John
John
#4
what are you running? speaker size and wattage? If you are WAY up there, it will be kinda hard to take out. Also, remove the spare tire trunk trim (if its still there) and see if they applied it to the under side of the deck lid. If they missed it, that would explain a lot. Try placing some weight on the deck to see if the actual metal is flexing, causing the vibration.
I am running a 10" at 283wrms. After removing the tray, the rattling went away (after dynamat installed under decklid). I have also heard of this stuff called "Quiet Coat" that supposedly also works real well (Have not tried it personally).
If it was done professionally, take it back and bitch. You probably paid top $ for that stuff to be put in right, and it obviously was not. Take it back and show them the rattle and tell them to get rid of it. Big chain stores usually will do that kinda stuff, as the techs bill by the hour and could not care if they work a bit more.....another reason why they sometimes do not get it right the first time.
John
I am running a 10" at 283wrms. After removing the tray, the rattling went away (after dynamat installed under decklid). I have also heard of this stuff called "Quiet Coat" that supposedly also works real well (Have not tried it personally).
If it was done professionally, take it back and bitch. You probably paid top $ for that stuff to be put in right, and it obviously was not. Take it back and show them the rattle and tell them to get rid of it. Big chain stores usually will do that kinda stuff, as the techs bill by the hour and could not care if they work a bit more.....another reason why they sometimes do not get it right the first time.
John
#5
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I took my tray out. Don't know yet what difference it will make. If you're going to do this, make sure you do it "with eyes wide open". Be aware of the effect removing the tray has on convertible top operation. Someone reported that, over time, the top when down sagged further and further into the space beneath the tray. The evidence was scuff marks on the window. Again, I can't tell you yet my own results. I'm working on a way to support the top without the tray. Until that's resolved, my top stays up (even in the 90+ degree weather we've been having here in Denver!)
Since you asked, I'm also in the process of removing the plastic rollbar covers. This will create another airspace the cabin can share with the trunk. I'm not advising you to do this; I'm just reporting my own plan. I'm facing many issues as a result of this decision and don't honestly have answers (yet, at least) for any of them.
I guess we all have to decide what's best for us as individuals and what it will take to get there.
Good luck!
Since you asked, I'm also in the process of removing the plastic rollbar covers. This will create another airspace the cabin can share with the trunk. I'm not advising you to do this; I'm just reporting my own plan. I'm facing many issues as a result of this decision and don't honestly have answers (yet, at least) for any of them.
I guess we all have to decide what's best for us as individuals and what it will take to get there.
Good luck!
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I took my tray out. Don't know yet what difference it will make. If you're going to do this, make sure you do it "with eyes wide open". Be aware of the effect removing the tray has on convertible top operation. Someone reported that, over time, the top when down sagged further and further into the space beneath the tray. The evidence was scuff marks on the window. Again, I can't tell you yet my own results. I'm working on a way to support the top without the tray. Until that's resolved, my top stays up (even in the 90+ degree weather we've been having here in Denver!)
Since you asked, I'm also in the process of removing the plastic rollbar covers. This will create another airspace the cabin can share with the trunk. I'm not advising you to do this; I'm just reporting my own plan. I'm facing many issues as a result of this decision and don't honestly have answers (yet, at least) for any of them.
I guess we all have to decide what's best for us as individuals and what it will take to get there.
Good luck!
Since you asked, I'm also in the process of removing the plastic rollbar covers. This will create another airspace the cabin can share with the trunk. I'm not advising you to do this; I'm just reporting my own plan. I'm facing many issues as a result of this decision and don't honestly have answers (yet, at least) for any of them.
I guess we all have to decide what's best for us as individuals and what it will take to get there.
Good luck!
#7
I'm running a JL Audio 10W3v2 with a JL Audio 250/1 amp.
I've tried pressing down on the convertible top and it doesn't seem to stop the rattle when I put pressure on it. Maybe it's something else. I'm having quite a time tracking it down. Removing the back top piece definitely helped a bit though. That thing sucked. I'll pull out the spare and check to see if he padded under it. I believe he did because I watched him do most of it and he removed the spare. The bit under the deck lid isn't done... It still has that thick cotton padding stuck to it.
I've tried pressing down on the convertible top and it doesn't seem to stop the rattle when I put pressure on it. Maybe it's something else. I'm having quite a time tracking it down. Removing the back top piece definitely helped a bit though. That thing sucked. I'll pull out the spare and check to see if he padded under it. I believe he did because I watched him do most of it and he removed the spare. The bit under the deck lid isn't done... It still has that thick cotton padding stuck to it.
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#8
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Not sure why my previous post showed up twice.
There's a low cost/low risk suggestion for venting into the cabin I forgot to mention earlier:
Replace the so-called "roll bar lower trim" behind each seat. Use acousticallly transparent material (grille cloth?) instead or just leave the passageway open.
To remove these pieces, unscrew the screws concealed within the two coat hooks on each panel. If I recall correctly, you should then be able to pull the panel out.
Again, not sure how effective this will be, especially since these panels are right behind the seats.
Just an idea.
There's a low cost/low risk suggestion for venting into the cabin I forgot to mention earlier:
Replace the so-called "roll bar lower trim" behind each seat. Use acousticallly transparent material (grille cloth?) instead or just leave the passageway open.
To remove these pieces, unscrew the screws concealed within the two coat hooks on each panel. If I recall correctly, you should then be able to pull the panel out.
Again, not sure how effective this will be, especially since these panels are right behind the seats.
Just an idea.
#9
Originally Posted by deanjones,Jul 18 2005, 07:03 PM
I'm running a JL Audio 10W3v2 with a JL Audio 250/1 amp.
Thanks! Mike
#10
You sure its not the mounting hardware for the spare that is rattling? Check all nuts and bolts. If ANY are loose the bass will let you know. Put in a bumping CD, open the trunk and listen. You should be able to tell the direction from which it is coming.
Take it back to Tweeter....they SHOULD do something about it, seeing as you hired them to get rid of the rattle.
John
Take it back to Tweeter....they SHOULD do something about it, seeing as you hired them to get rid of the rattle.
John