Sorry about the large size, I just reinstalled windows and don't have any photo editing software on my PC.

With a little help from my friend donny...12 guage wire through the driver side speaker door!!!! Has anyone else gotten larger wire into the driver side door using the grommet?

You can see the factory wire on the right side of his hand. I used to use that to power the speakers, thats why there are the connectors and wire clipped onto them.

 

are you really going to supplly those side speakers with that much power?
why would you need high gauge wires like that? would it actually make the music sound better?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by bayarea408
[B]are you really going to supplly those side speakers with that much power?
why would you need high gauge wires like that?

 

they look much bigger than the stock wires.. good job... i guess size does matter

 

I'm not saying you shouldn't run fat wire if you want to, but the math works out like this . . .

If you ran 10 feet of 12 gauge in lieu of 16 gauge, instead of providing 70 watts to the speaker, you would only be providing 68.5 watts. That's a fraction of a db in output, and there's no way you could tell an audible difference.

You probably lose more power than that in the crossover.

 

I would like to refer interested parties to the following website that discusses/explains speaker wires. The gentleman, Roger Russel, is a retired engineer of McIntosh Audio. It is very informative.

http://www.sundial.net/~rogerr/wire.htm

 

Just to give everyone an update, I switched from Infinity Kappa 63.3i's to JL Audio XR650's in the doors which sound MUCH better!

 

All: Please note, however, that the tests and tables pertain mostly to 8 ohm loads, not the 4 ohm loads commonly founf in car speakers. Mention is made of tests on 6 ohms, as well, but that was more to prove a point. There is some useful info here, but please don't use the info "as is"...especially the table...without reconverting measurements for 4 ohm (and 2 ohm for some ) loads.