Increasing amps to DC 12v socket? Any way?
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From: Corona
Increasing amps to DC 12v socket? Any way?
I posted the same topic here
someone suggested I might get more looks over here, so I'm just copying the first post. But hopefully someone can help.
Anyone know if there is any way to increase the amperage that is capable of being output of the 12v DC socket in car? I bought a dual USB plug that is capable of outputting 5v at 1.3 or 1.5 amps for charging electronics (phones, gps, tablets etc), but I using a utility on my phone I've noticed that it only outputs something like .3 amps so phones charge very very slowly. Is there anyway to hardware a line so it can suck down more current when needed?
As I posted in the other topic, one of the reasons I really want to get this done is for when both my girlfriend and I are charging phones, or when I have a phone that is dying that I need to top off before I get where I'm going. But more importantly, lots of smartphones now (when completely discharged) don't allow you to turn them on as soon as you plug them into a power source. They display a battery icon or something similar and have to get a minimum amount of mAh into the battery before allowing the user to actually use the device. Normally at home this takes about 5 minutes or so, but in the car even after more than half an hour it still doesn't allow me to turn it on.
someone suggested I might get more looks over here, so I'm just copying the first post. But hopefully someone can help.
Anyone know if there is any way to increase the amperage that is capable of being output of the 12v DC socket in car? I bought a dual USB plug that is capable of outputting 5v at 1.3 or 1.5 amps for charging electronics (phones, gps, tablets etc), but I using a utility on my phone I've noticed that it only outputs something like .3 amps so phones charge very very slowly. Is there anyway to hardware a line so it can suck down more current when needed?
As I posted in the other topic, one of the reasons I really want to get this done is for when both my girlfriend and I are charging phones, or when I have a phone that is dying that I need to top off before I get where I'm going. But more importantly, lots of smartphones now (when completely discharged) don't allow you to turn them on as soon as you plug them into a power source. They display a battery icon or something similar and have to get a minimum amount of mAh into the battery before allowing the user to actually use the device. Normally at home this takes about 5 minutes or so, but in the car even after more than half an hour it still doesn't allow me to turn it on.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,149
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From: Raleigh, NC
Yes you can do this.
You'll need to run a 10G wire directly to the a relay which would be triggered by the socket. then ground the socket to the body a few inches away.
Wire up the relay like this: cut the wiring going to the socket and make the connections below.
30: 10g wire directly from battery (install fuse 20-30 amp depending on what your trying to power)
87: (+) wire going into aux socket.
86: take (-) from car and run it directly here
85: take (+) from car and run it directly here
ground of cig socket: ground to body of car.
You'll need to run a 10G wire directly to the a relay which would be triggered by the socket. then ground the socket to the body a few inches away.
Wire up the relay like this: cut the wiring going to the socket and make the connections below.
30: 10g wire directly from battery (install fuse 20-30 amp depending on what your trying to power)
87: (+) wire going into aux socket.
86: take (-) from car and run it directly here
85: take (+) from car and run it directly here
ground of cig socket: ground to body of car.
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From: Corona
Yes you can do this.
You'll need to run a 10G wire directly to the a relay which would be triggered by the socket. then ground the socket to the body a few inches away.
Wire up the relay like this: cut the wiring going to the socket and make the connections below.
30: 10g wire directly from battery (install fuse 20-30 amp depending on what your trying to power)
87: (+) wire going into aux socket.
86: take (-) from car and run it directly here
85: take (+) from car and run it directly here
ground of cig socket: ground to body of car.
You'll need to run a 10G wire directly to the a relay which would be triggered by the socket. then ground the socket to the body a few inches away.
Wire up the relay like this: cut the wiring going to the socket and make the connections below.
30: 10g wire directly from battery (install fuse 20-30 amp depending on what your trying to power)
87: (+) wire going into aux socket.
86: take (-) from car and run it directly here
85: take (+) from car and run it directly here
ground of cig socket: ground to body of car.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,574
Likes: 62
From: NJ USA
I bet the real issue is the usb charger you bought
of current you're asking - it's only constraint is the 10 amp fuse, which
generally will either deliver all the current that is asked of it, or blow,
delivering none. It is possible there is a source of resistance in the
outlet/circuit, but I'd guess the problem is with the charger itself.
The world is flooded with cheap USB chargers that don't deliver their
specified current.
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From: Corona
I posted this in two forums, so I'll just copy and paste the reply:
So it definitely isn't the charger. The Griffin Dual charger that I had before was rated at 1.5 amps I believe. And after testing again, with both car off, and car running it was outputting 3.840-3.845v @340-360 mA...
I bought this charger at the recommendation of another user.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It lists under the product specs "Input: 12-18V DC, Output: DC 2.1A + 1A (Total 3.1A Output)" and using an amazon USB cable, and an HTC micro usb cable, it was delivering the exact same 3.840-38.45v @ 340-360 mA. When I used the same exact cables in house, the amperage jumped up to 700-900 mA (I think the variance was because it's on a shared socket with a computer).
So as I pretty much said before, the outlet or the wiring has to be bad, I've tried 3 different DC chargers now and all of them don't even come close to even pulling down half an amp even though their rated output is either 3x or 6x that.
So it definitely isn't the charger. The Griffin Dual charger that I had before was rated at 1.5 amps I believe. And after testing again, with both car off, and car running it was outputting 3.840-3.845v @340-360 mA...
I bought this charger at the recommendation of another user.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It lists under the product specs "Input: 12-18V DC, Output: DC 2.1A + 1A (Total 3.1A Output)" and using an amazon USB cable, and an HTC micro usb cable, it was delivering the exact same 3.840-38.45v @ 340-360 mA. When I used the same exact cables in house, the amperage jumped up to 700-900 mA (I think the variance was because it's on a shared socket with a computer).
So as I pretty much said before, the outlet or the wiring has to be bad, I've tried 3 different DC chargers now and all of them don't even come close to even pulling down half an amp even though their rated output is either 3x or 6x that.
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From: Las Cruces, New Mexico
yeah its your usb charger itself im 100% sure of that. seems like a few people are haveing problems with them from what the reviews say. you could have just got a bad one. try looking on ebay for one. all you need is 1.5amps to each usb.
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From: Corona