*EDIT adding part numbers*
This is what I ordered from Amayama for the metal brackets to put on the deck to mount it properly in the cage. You also will need I think 4 self tapping screws to mount the plastic cage thing to the dash on the inside. I think I needed 2 to mount the air duct to the back of the cage after mounting the cage with the existing screws.
2x Honda 39811-S2A-000 - BRACKET STEEL

4x Honda 93500-050-080A - SCREW, PAN 5X8

4x Honda 93903-44420 - SCREW, TAPPING 4X16

Screw, Tapping (4X16) (Po)
93913-14420


Nobody from the old dash cutting club seems to be around anymore so I searched through it for any pictures or info that would help and checked YouTube for anything that would help.

One thing i noticed was that everyone who used the JDM navi cage thing cut the mounting frame part of the cage off and just stuffed it in from the front of the dashboard. In a few of the pics and videos you can see what looked like mounting points for the cage inside our LHD US dashboards though, which got me thinking maybe for some reason LHD dashboards were actually made to accept the navigation parts but for whatever reason Honda never released that accessory outside of Japan.

Anyway, I wanted to see if we LHD owners did indeed have the mounting spots for the cage and the other day while installing the 20th Anniversary radio door I stuck my phone up in the dash a bit and saw what were definitely mounting points for the cage so I decided to pull the dash out and check for myself since I couldn't find any pictures or video of what the inside of the dash looks like on any S2000.

This is what you see from the back with the vent ducts in place:



Removing the ducting we see indeed everything for the cage and bezel is already there from the factory. The 2 yellow circled pegs are in the way but the cage has its own pegs on its back side which replace them functionally. Red are the alignment pins and mounting points for the cage, green are the top and bottom clip holes for the bezel:



cage in place flush on its mounting points after I dremelled off the 2 pegs in the way. Red circled are the 2 points on the back of the cage which replicate the mounting spots used by our US vent tubing, the purple spot is not used but doesn't interfere with fitting the tubing, I'm guessing that's used on RHD cars and the other one is only used on LHD cars.


Today I'll be cutting the dash to make the opening but I'm not quite sure how to get the soft outer vinyl or whatever it's made of to mold the way the JDM cars which had this from the factory look - though this is a mirrored image of a JDM dash with the navi bezel and unit removed:




Will update once i have the cutout complete. Still need to find someone who can 3D scan the JDM bezel and I'm reaching out to a member who can 3D print one - hoping it's pretty straightforward to just flip the scanned model in software to make a LHD-curved version.

 

Ok well the cage is mounted and the hole is as close to perfect as I could get it - went with the old "measure 713 times, cut 22 times" method and it's pretty dang close to what I imagine a factory hole would have been. Didn't really run into any snags, I just started by slicing into and peeling off a rectangle of the front vinyl + padding that would definitely be smaller than the opening, dremeled it open and then slowly enlarged the hole by cutting pieces of the dash off, checking fitment with the cage, and repeating.

First here is the cage installed with all 7 screws (I need to either see if Honda has some of these or maybe just run to a hardware store - they're the more common part number 93913-14420 Screw, Tapping (4X16) (PO) that holds the ducts in place.




Here is the front side with just the cage installed - it looks as close to the JDM picture i found as I could possibly make it.



With the bezel just sitting on top:



You can already see though with the curve that the JDM RHD bezel has it just absolutely will not fit properly:



Some pics of trying to push it in as close as I could without breaking the bezel (or reshaping it with a heat gun of course):




one last shot - this gap would not be here if the bezel were curved for the LHD dash:

 

So the overall process of dash cutting and installing went pretty well - I'm fairly sure if I can get the bezel 3D scanned , flipped and printed there won't be any gaps. What you see in the pictures with the JDM bezel is pretty much entirely due to the bezel not fitting the LHD dash curvature at all.

My only advice to anyone who wants to do this on theirs is just measure many times, cut a small amount, check fitment and repeat. I made one tiny mistake and sheared off one of the alignment pegs for the cage mounting screws inside but it doesn't affect installation at all since the holes all have to line up anyway.

All that's left really are to sort out a properly-curved bezel and possibly open up some more holes in the cage for the Alpine HU that's going in there.

I don't know that using a heat gun on this thing would give a perfect fit simply because the width of the sides is not identical and the 6 mounting legs with clips on them are all kind of lined up on a flat plane relative to each other, it's only the front part of the bezel that is curved.

 

Ah, so from what I've gathered, there was no LHD bezel then correct, just RHD ones?

 

Yeah they only had the navigation option in Japan and only from the factory. Haven't seen any non-Japanese S2000's that had it either factory or dealer-installed but it's very interesting to me that when they made the LHD version of the dashboard, they kept all the mounting points for the inner bracket/cage thing as well as the clip spots for a bezel that was never made (LHD version I mean).

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UPDATE: I spoke with a local 3D scanning / printing company. They recommended scanning it, then trying to use a heat gun to mold the Honda bezel and if it doesn't turn out well have them try to print a flipped version so I'll be doing that this weekend.

 

Good job.
I think you saw my install. Yes, the bezel doesn't fit 100% but I used some black silicon gasket marker to fill in the gap. Would be nice if there is a 3D printed custom bezel though.
I didn't remove the dash..I just "guestimated" and cut a smaller hole and slowly enlarge it into the right size/location. I also cut the back of the inner bracket and just reach my hand around to install the back crews. How hard was it to remove the dash?

 

Ah ok that makes sense. I should be dropping off this bezel for a 3D scan next week so if a heat gun doesn't get it looking clean enough at least we'll have the 3D model to try printing out and see if that fits better.

Dash removal wasn't particularly difficult - it's only held on by 6 bolts and 2 screws but what was kind of a pain in the rear was disconnecting about 7 trillion wire harness plugs on either side. Honestly I think there are about a dozen total, and also when I pulled the steering wheel off, it brought the front cover of the clock spring along with it so I'm not sure if I need a new one or not. Was able to coil it back up fine but the cover doesn't really stay on securely.

I'm getting antsy to put this back together so I can keep driving the car so I may just go get some 'close enough' screws for the air ducting today - ordered Honda screws a few days ago but they haven't shipped yet and I haven't driven the car in 2 weeks

Anywho I'll post back up when I have an update with the bezel situation!

 

Don't need to go crazy with screws. Just go to the local hardware store and find a similar screw is fine. Honda charge too much and they don't even make the screws

 

I was looking at your pics on the phone earlier...now on the computer so it looks a bit clearer. From the front is fine but looking at the side, the gap is just too large (esp on yours). Also I think you overcut the dash a bit??
I had gap on mine too (but not as much as yours). What I did was drilled a few small holes in certain places and use some black zip ties and really pull the bezel to the back plate/bracket. This closes up the gap about 90%. Still have a little bit gap and I used a tiny bit of silicon to fill up the rest. My dash is black so the black silicon concealed perfectly. Your is blue so if you go the silicon route, I'd use masking tape and mask up the area you don't want the silicon to stick to. But if you can fab up a custom plate, that'd be ideal. Good luck

 

ooh the side-to-side is barely wide enough to squeeze the bezel down into the mounting bracket/cage thing. If I had a perfect left-hand-drive mirror image of the bezel it would fit pretty much perfectly but smooshing this RHD bezel in there deforms it so it makes gaps on all 4 sides.

The thing i'm not sure about is that if you look at the pic of the JDM dashboard, that outer layer of dashboard vinyl or latex whatever it is is like molded into the hole opening which I didn't think about beforehand. If I was redoing this I would try to kind of slice open the vinyl and peel it off the foam from the outside, then cut the plastic from the inside only, that way you could still have the vinyl attached on the outside/front of the dash to mold into the hole once you removed the plastic.

Once I either have the 3D printed LHD bezel or try the heat-gun method you'll see what I mean, but yeah the hole is barely wide enough to fit the bezel - any smaller and the clip legs wouldn't fit in passed the dashboard plastic.