Folks I am looking to fit the following to an IDA X001 Head unit with remote CD changer

Amp Xetec P2 Evo
2 x 205W @ 4 ohm
2 x 350W @ 2 ohm
2 x 590W @ 1 ohm
1 x 700W @ 4 ohm bridged
1 x 950W @ 2 ohm bridged

Max Input current 85 A
Fuse 3 x 3A

Polk DB 6501 4 ohm 100W (300W peak)

Boss D10F Phantom 10" Sub 4 ohm 400W (800W peak)

I dont know if the alternator is man enough and the battery currently fitted is only a 45Ah unit.

Do I need to beef up the alternator and or the Battery.

I am hoping the peeps on here have similar installations amongst their cars and can advise.

Thanks for reading

 

You don't say exactly how you intend to use the amp, though I assume bridged for
the 4-ohm sub, and just headunit power for the door speakers?
IMO you should be fine - lots of people are running much more power than that
with the standard alternator and battery. Remember that at any given time you are
likely only demanding a tiny fraction of the amp's maximum output, and thus drawing
far less than its maximum input current.

 

Thanks for the reply. Probably hook the door speakers to the amp as the head unit IDA X001 only gives 18W rms. Planning to run head unit to amp then go to the speakers from the Amp. Lot of wiring but I hope it will be worth it. I was planning just to suck it and see with a clamp on meter as the gain gets tweeked :-)

 

While technically possible, I don't think you'll want to power both the sub and the door speakers off
the same two-channel (left + right) amp - you'll need to run them off the same channel, so you won't be
able to set levels for the sub and doors independently. As a sub generally requires far more power than
than the door speakers, you'll end up with a severely underpowered sub.
You'd do better to either get a second amp to power the sub, or use a four-channel amp with the rear
channels bridged for the sub.

 

Yeah just looking at that now.

 

Ok I give up. Suggestions please folks

 

JL audio hd600/4 was the final verdict. Wise choice? Shot I now need another sub? Grrr

 

That would certainly be a fine, if pricey, choice. What are your goals for the system?
What type of music do you listen to? How loud? Is your goal with the sub to "round out"
the music, or to shake the neighborhood? Do you want a stealth, space-saving installation,
or do you want your trunk to be a rolling electronics show?
Those speakers are fairly efficient - it would be reasonable to supply them with 50-150 watts RMS
per channel; the sub, 200-500 RMS. If you like things loud, err on the higher side; if
your preference is more modest, you don't need the overkill.

 

Going to get the hd900/5 today. Don't need to make my teeth fall out but the option would be nice

 

More pain in the ass rookie questions !
Power lead. I have ordered 4AWG but reading a review on Amazon one disgruntled reviewer of the JL Audio HD900/5 said he had been told by the support that it should have been 2AWG. As far as I know the amp connections are only compatable with 4. Given I will probably only fit a 50A fuse 4 should be fine and dandy.

Where in the S2K to mount the remote bass control?