Ok, I see now. This makes alot more sense. Ill go and talk to him to see what he has to say about that. Then Ill just have them pricematch the Kicker. Thanks alot.
gmoore

 

Just ordered the Xtant amp. I will let you all know how it turns out. Also, I dont recall who made my amp kit, but I bought it off the same guy who sold me the Visonik Should I invest in an Audio Pipe wiring kit? Something like this? http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/1578 TIA.
gmoore

 

the Xtant? did you decide on the 403A? if you don't mind me asking, why the change from the Kicker? not, that i don't approve but you did seem to be leaning towards the Kicker for a while...

can you give me some more details regarding the amp kit you currently have? it may be that your current wiring will be more than enough... i don't think you need something quite as elaborate as the wiring kit you've posted (it's setup for multiple amps and includes distribution blocks, 3 sets of RCAs, etc.), but something like this or this kitwould probably be fine... especially if you have a set of RCA's already in place (and don't need to buy a 2nd set).

bigger (4 gauge) wiring will improve your power output some, but it may only be barely noticable, depending on what you currently have.... and honestly -- within the same size, for the most part power wire is power wire... interconnects are far more important...

 

Yup, I went with the 403a. The Xtant didnt look that impressive spec wise from the factory, but when I read that it actually pumped out over 350wrms to the sub channel, and that it normally costs 900 bucks, I figured it was a solid investment.

The wiring kit is 4 gauge, I just dont think it was a name brand. I just thought there was different quality wire and what not, but if not, then I should be ok.

As far as mounting this sucker, I may have to get something custom, it is much longer than the Visonik, so it wont be able to rest on the bottom of the well. The guys at one store wanted 200 bucks just to make a plexi cover over the amp, now they will have to somehow raise it, then cover it, cant wait to see what they want for that... Any cheaper ideas?
gmoore

 

regarding mounting.... the max dimension of the Xtant is 18", by 7.6" wide which should fit length wise in the well over the tools quite easily. unless i have completely forgotten myself, the length at the bottom of the well is something like 22" or more... that should be more than enough to mount that amp over the tools.

also, a plexi cover can be a bit tricky to make... especially if it includes fans and the like... $200 sounds a bit high if there are no fans or anything... but it isn't outrageous. i can try to explain the basic method on how i did mine if you're tool handy and want to DIY (do it yourself).

here's a cheaper, but not perfect idea.... keep the tools in the stock holder (since you're using a side mount sub). buy another tool top cover and mount the amp to that cover using bolts and locknuts... (the OEM cover is like $30 or so) the cover isn't super strong, so if the amp is really heavy, you might need to reinforce the OEM cover if it is too flimsy... in either case though, the weight should keep it down unless you roll the car or something... and then, i doubt scratching the amp or something would be your main concern.

if you're tool handy, trace the tool cover and cut a 3/4" mounting board for the amp and then carpet it. that should run you about $40 or so, but would provide a sturdier mount.

as far as building the plexi cover... before i start into how i did mine, let me know if you're willing to DIY.

http://members.cox.net/knieper.3/stereo/am...prackclosed.jpg
http://members.cox.net/knieper.3/stereo/am...rackexposed.jpg

 

Hmm, I originally had the Visonik on the bottom of the well, as I took the tools out. I guess now I can put the tools back and mount it on top of them, however the well is tapered, so the cover will not fit as well over the amp. Ill give the DIY a shot before I pay for the custom work. As far as tools, I only have hand tools, no saws. I guess Ill need some wood, a Dremel, and maybe Ill try and leather wrap it, I can get that and adhesive at sounddomain.com. Anything else?
gmoore

 

hrm.

the tools would sit in the well, and the cover would cover them, and possibly be a mount for your amp. the well tapers to the top, so you'll have to build a new top for the amp...

i did most of my work w/ a jigsaw, circular saw, and a drill (w/ a couple of hole saws). i also cheated some and used a power sander (mouse style), but that isn't necessary...

what i did to build my setup was this...

for the amp mount - i traced the tool cover and used a jigsaw to cut a 3/4" MDF version to mount my amps. i carpeted this using contact cement.

to fab the upper cover, i acquired some large sheets of cardboard. i cut them square to the largest dimensions of the well. i then shaved and sculpted the corners (with some scissors, a box cutter, and a rough file) to exactly match the contour of the top of the well. the corners are not quite circular radiused, but are slightly elliptical, so the sculpting method provided an excellent match... i then used the cardboard template i made to trace out the shape of the top on a sheet of 1/2" MDF and used the jigsaw to rough out the shape. i perfected the corners and edges w/a file, sandpaper, and time.
i then drew out a cutout (using a square edge) where i wanted my plexi window. i used a hole saw to create a circular edge at each corner (using a compass that was set to the hole saw's diameter to locate the bit center -- pre-drill the bit center to help guide the hole saw.). i then used the jigsaw to cut along my original rectangular cutout i sketched and achieved the rectangular hole w/ the rounded edges.
i then made two 'legs' for the top, that hold it even with the floor of the trunk. the legs are made of 3/4" MDF, and i carpeted them with contact cement (all but the upper edge). if you want a level top though, you'll note that there is a slight slant w/in the well, and you'll have to compensate for that.... my legs are mildly trapezoidal.
using wood glue and 3 wood screws (per leg) - i attached the legs to the top (pre-drill all holes so you don't split the MDF, and drill a counter sink if you want to hide your screw heads), leaving adequate space between them for the amps.
the top i covered in carpet w/ spray glue (i thought it would be easier than the contact cement, and i had run out of the contact cement and i didn't want to run to the store for more... bad idea. use contact cement .).
i used 3/4" plexi for my window, since i wanted it to support luggage. the plexi window i cut w/ the jigsaw to a size slightly larger than my hole size (about 3/4" on all sides, and screwed the edges/bottom into the 1/2" MDF using 1/2" screws and washers to hold the plexi in place (distribute the screw's load so the plexi doesn't crack). be sure to pre-drill all plexi holes, or you'll get splitting and cracking in the plexi. plexi work can tricky as you constantly need to keep blades moving or the plexi starts to melt and will lock your blade / drill bit in place. and anywhere that you have tool contact to the plexi, you'll need to lay down protective tape or something to prevent scratching.


now, if you want to add fans or vents -- somewhere before you carpet the top and add the plexi or even before adding the legs -- you'll have to cut holes for the fans (you can use a hole saw the same diameter as the fan's airflow cutout) or vent, and mount the fans. then you'll need to carpet around the fans and add fan grills. i also suggest you paint the fan 'tunnel' black or something else discreet. my posted photos don't show that as i went back and did some cleanup work later...

i hope this helps...

edit: oh you'll also need to wire up a relay to power the fans and amp turn on lead...

all in all, this whole process took me about 10-12 hours... working fairly constantly, but taking my time so i'd only have to do it once.

 

Wow, seems like alot of work. I dont have any of those tools, and for what I would pay for them, I bet I could have this done profesionally. Another thing, the sub came in today, and the circular piece that connects the kevlar looking flat outter piece of the sub to the inside of the magnet is crooked ever so slightly. You know what Im talking about? When you look through the cage, you can see "through" the sub except for that piece...Will it being slightly off affect my sound? What should I do if this is a deffect?
gmoore

 

well, it was a lot of work...

i had most of the tools, but did borrow some things... my materials costs probably ran close to $75 (plexi, carpet, glues, MDF, screws, fans, relays, etc.) so, depending on how handy you feel -- you might be better off paying.

i do know what you're talking about (i think). if it's fully attached, it shouldn't affect your sound, but it being slightly crooked might be a sign of minor shipping damage. i'd call Ben at ED and ask him about it... he will take care of you.

 

The weird thing is is that the box was in excellent shape, and the outter parts of the sub are in great shape. If anything, its a manufacturing default. Ill call them up and see what they say, will I just have to return this one? If so, Im looking at another two weeks before they recieve mine and I get a new one back, gah. Ill give them a call, and see what my local shop says. Also, when I have the amp wired, they should run it in bridged mode at 4 ohms right. And that would produce the 100 x 2 and 200 x1 power rating, correct?
gmoore