My first grade teacher said there was no such thing as a stupid question. I bet she doesn't say that anymore. I'm making preparations for a DIY install of audio equipment. It would be wiser and cheaper to have this done at a shop but that wouldn't be me. I've read through numerous threads and how to's and I've got some questions I'm hoping can be answered by the EJ's and audio specialists on the forums. My questions are primarily after going through DarkKnights how-to sticky.

I know what gear I'm getting, except for speakers.
Anticipated equipment:
Alpine 9887 HU
JL Audio HD600/4
1 set of component speakers - TBD
No subwoofer

Battery Terminals. You'll die laughing!
-- Do these install under the car battery terminals or under? Yeah, I know what you're thinking. Wish I could say the questions get better but they probably don't.
From the pics it looks like on top but then they don't really show the battery terminals either.

Fuses.
-- I saw an external fuse source discussed in DarkKnights thread; (PowerFuse 1-2 Distribution for Three 4 Gauge Cables to Two 8 Gauge Fused Outputs3-4 AWG to 2-8 AWG (AGU) PFD 12A 104086 $49.95ea.) Can this piece be explained in greater detail; what it's used for and what does it connect?

Grounds
-- It states amps (and I'm assuming HU) should be run with proper size grounding wire. I haven't taken delivery of my gear so this may be answered by product literature. How do you know the proper size ground and power lead?

Speaker Install
-- I know many cut the backs out of the factory baskets. Given the price of some speakers, does anyone use baffles when installing their component woofers to protect from water? From my research, I understand these type speakers aren't recommended for enclosure. Are there recommendations on after market baffles that can be used which don't impair sound?

Cross-overs
-- I understand cross-overs induce noise into the audio equipment and it's best to keep as far away from amps, HU and speakers as possible. Aside from the door, is there another place that is ideal for placement?
-- Do any adjustments need to be made on the cross-overs that would make it convenient to placing them in an accessible location for tuning the speakers after they've broken in?

Wiring
-- Is there any reason to run a 1/0 wire? Based on what I've read it's not needed as my selected amp isn't in the power range for such a wire. Recommendations?

Thanks in advance

 

Battery Terminal - Used for cleaner installs on the car battery terminals when running the AMP wires (Positive / Negative). Simply slip over terminal and tighten bolt.


Fuses - The AMP has an inline fuse coming from the battery terminal in case of a short. When using multiple AMP and Capacitors, some like using additional fuse blocks for added protection/convenience.


Grounds - This really doesn't matter for the HU (Uses Factory Ground Wire) but It's super important for the AMP. Make sure to strip the paint on the chassis when your grounding the amp of just run a extra long cable to the battery ground terminal (See Battery Terminal).

Speaker Install - If you have enough water getting into the door to short out your speaker you have bigger problems. You only need to cut the baskets with speakers with deeper voice coils (watch out for glass with these).

I'll let someone else to chime in on Cross-overs and Wiring.

Disclaimer - This is to the best of my knowledge and experience not 100% FACT.

 

JL amp? yuck

 

For the price of that JL amp, you could snag a Sundown SAX 100.4 and have money left over. Much higher quality than JL.

 

Thanks for the info, Juice Steez. I also figured out the application for the power distribution block discussed in DarkKnights how-to thread. Amazing what some sleep and down time will do for the noodle.

Thanks for the recommendation about the Sundown amp. I've never been a fan of JL Audio. I like the Soundstream Ref amp and it was my initial choice. What I do like about the JL Amp and similar Alpine PDX-4.150 is their heat dissipation abilities. I live in Dallas, TX and it gets a little hot in summer.

I'll definitely check out Sundown as I have a couple of weeks before ordering and beginning the process of ripping out the interior.

cheers!

 

NS and I both have SAX-100.4 amps. Great sound.

Fuses are used in case something gets screwed up. If you cross wires, you aren't out an amp. If you buy a wiring kit for your amp, a fuse will come with it. They get installed anywhere in line with the (+) wire that goes between your battery and your amp.

Power and ground wire--I would get 4AWG for your setup. NS would say go 1/0 in case you add a sub later, right?
For ground wire, use the same size as your primary power wire (4AWG --> 4AWG). One size down is probably fine (4AWG power --> 8AWG ground) if it's a really short run (a few feet).

Baffles--I didn't bother. You can. I don't think this is a big deal.

Crossovers--maybe over the gas tank? They don't really get dialed in usually--you just plug them together and leave them alone for the most part. Your tuning would typically be done on the amp and head unit. Are you doing an active setup? It would give you the best sound. Then you can throw out the passive crossovers entirely.

 

Thanks everyone for the info you provided. It helped in getting things sorted. I have 1 additional question.

My FM reception isn't great on stock stereo system. Most aftermarket HU's seem to get worse reception. Are there any recommendations on a powered antenna? I've searched and didn't find anything.

My plan is to run passive crossovers. I initially considered active but with my speaker choice I'll let the included crossovers do their job. I'll imprint the Alpine HU and make any minor calibrations to flatten out the curve.

 

You can't make adjustments to the Imprint curves (other than basic Bass/Treble).

 

Here's the link from Crutchfield discussing what can be done with Imprint. It states either the Imprint software can perform the adjustments or buyer can do manually. Maybe Alpine made refinements to the software or more likely Crutchfield is wrong. Either way, it's a convertible.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTX100E/Al...Q.html?tp=27863

One thing to note; it's cool you can get the Imprint software, run it and return to Crutchfield for $50. Will have to consider doing a meet where everyone chips in a couple of bucks.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

Right...it's one or the other.

My understanding of it is that Imprint has far more setpoints than you can set manually.

And IF you do rent the Imprint mic from Crutchfield, make sure you save the Imprint data file for when you disconnect the battery Keep in mind that if you think you'll upgrade at a later time/date to better speakers/amp, you'll save on straight owning the mic - you can rent it out to locals at $5/pop or whatever and make something back while helping out your local buddies