I have the modifry seat belt lock taping into the accessory behind the passenger seat

I really need a separate power source...just one little f'in wire on the passenger side

 

just run a new wire straight from the battery through the grommet right behind the battery. put your own inline fuse on it.

It will end up right in the passenger floor area once you get it through the grommet. a little lubricant helps to fish it through.

It all depends on how much power you need.

If its less than an amp you could probably use the radio's constant feed unless you have an aftermarket radio that is already using the full amount of power.

 

it has to be switched power and the wideband O2 sensor draws 3 amps as it needs to warm up in order not to corrode

 

why are you so hell bent on getting power on the passenger side? Whats another few inches instead of going though all this trouble to find some obscure powersource, which may or maynot be capable of the extra amperance your looking to draw from it.

 

i think your only options are tapping into drivers side power somewhere or running a new fused and switched line. you could run a new fused line from the battery and use a relay to switch it on with ignition or another power feed...

 

I already have the accessory switched and unswitched power taken up...I need something else other than accessory...just would like someone to give me a reliable power source...not question my choice...please be helpful instead of giving useless criticism

 

With all you have going on, I would set up a feed from both the constant power and switched power taps at the fuse block. I would fuse those feeds and then mount two fused junction blocks under the dash and pull my separarate loads from them. Your method is just asking for trouble without thorough investigation and evaluation of the loads you are hooking up and what is already in use. Take my advice or leave it.

 

that's fine...but if I can identify a wire to use I'll find out how much amperage is being used

 

I've decided to go w/ the wire going to the cruise control switch (black/yellow)

I don't think I'll have an issue w/the amperage since my cruise control is disconnected and out of the car and the tap will be placed before the wire gets to the cruise control switch....so those are amps that are not being used

does anyone know off hand what the cruise control uses as far as amps go?? I'm pretty certain I'll be fine but just would be interesting to know...I should be safe though

 

just to update this thread before I close it:

ended up goin with a simple add a fuse that is available at your local autozone

ie: http://store.42draftdesigns.com/Mini-Fuse-...it_p_27-65.html



pretty much a piggyback on another fuse...and I chose to do the add a fuse on a 7.5 amp wiper motor fuse at the top of the fuse box under the dash...it is switched power obviously and doesn't appear to be a critical fuse...simple really

look for a thread in modifications (most likely) in the coming weeks...should be able to do the in dash gauges either tonight or tomorrow night and will try to do a full writeup on it

closing this thread