Hi

I installed Hella HID magnesium auxiliary lights and I want to use them as daylight driving light because they are smaller than the S2000 but have the same brightness.
However they come with an relay to connect it to the low beam +12. I like to change it to driving lights and I need one wire what give me +12 when the engine runs and +/- 0 Volt when the engine stops. Does any one know the right wire on the S2000 what supplies +12 only when the engine runs ???

 

On the under dash fuse panel next to your left knee, there are 3 empty male spade connectors. One of these comes on with ignition, another one is hot all the time and the third is hot with the dash lights. Sorry but I can't remember which is which. A cheap voltmeter or continuity tester will tell you. When you find the right one, it won't power your lights but it will power your light relay.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by xviper
[B]

 

Do NOT take any power directly off the alternator. This is not a regulated power supply and is very dangerous to do.
What you need to run your light as DRL's is the "HOT with ignition". You would use this source to power your relay. Then your lights get hooked up to the "battery" circuit of your relay. That's how high powered stuff like headlights, foglights and horns get wired.
Your "Hot with ignition" source powers the relay (which is a low power appliance). This then closes the circuit to your "battery" circuit that then powers the lights. The "battery" circuit should have an inline fuse that will handle the load and can be taken off the main underhood fuse panel by the battery. Just make sure you know where to tap this in or you'll do some serious damage. A Helm manual will be most helpful here.
If you hadn't already gotten your lights for this purpose, you could have purchased a "DRL" module that you could have "spliced" into your existing headlights. DRL's are generally run at 50-60% full power. HID type of lights generate quite a bit of heat and depending on where you mount them, you might just melt something. Such a module costs only about $25.00 - $50.00.

 

xviper,

that is actually the way I am going to do it. I use an Hella HID set from Germany. Those HID lights are in magnesium cover and absolute heat resistant. Here the specs : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...1868095383&rd=1
It come with relay and cable (the same way to wire you mentioned before) But I like those lights on only when the engine runs ! Not when I turn the ignition key ! The relay is used to power the HID ballast from the battery (big 18 gauge wire) The size is perfect for the front lip. I will post the pics as soon I get my car back (Its in the shop for the Vortech job) How is your Vortech project going ??? It took me 4 days longer because I was one of the lucky "wrong ECU box owner" :-) Vortech send the box overnight and tomorrow is my "big day"

 

With regards to those lights getting hot: I'm not worried about their own casings. Even though they are heat resistant, this only means that the casings will be OK. However, those casings themselves may get quite hot and transmit the heat to their surroundings (ie. your plastic bumper). Just keep a close eye on them.
The "hot with ignition" on the fuse panel will come on when the key is turned all the way. I don't believe it will be on when you only have it in "accessory" mode (the one before the engine run postion). But check this to confirm. I don't think there is anything on this car that you could tap power from that is hot ONLY when the engine runs. That last key position is as good as it gets. Besides, I can't see why you would have it in that last position if you don't plan to start the engine.
My Vortech in sitting in its box. I will begin to install bits and pieces of it near the end of winter. The whole thing should be on the car next May. Hope yours comes together perfect and the new box works without a glitch ('cause I have the new box, too).

 

you only know that you have the right box when you install the kit. I thought the same that when the wire and the vacum hose on the oposite site than you know you have the right box but but since today I know that is not true. My installer told me that he talked to Trevor from Vortech and he told him that you the box comes from splitsecond.com and they send them units with the wrong elictronic inside the box. The only way is "try and error"
Shame that Vortech does not mention anything about that on there website.......

 

So, you're saying that I could STILL have the WRONG computer box? My kit was delayed for almost 2 months because they wanted to be "sure" that the correct box was included before shipping. This delay made it such that I could not do the install right away (no point in puttin on a S/C for winter). Now, I may have to do it sooner just to see if the bloody computer box is good.
What exactly was NOT right with your "so-called" correct box?

 

You only know for sure if you put the box on the car. Vortech sends out a different box overnight (if yours is wrong).
I will post pictures from my box tonight.
Both boxes look the same (wire and vacuum same side on box).
I know now for sure that vacuum line and wire on the opposite sides is not an indication that you have the right box. The software (hardware ?) insides make it the right or wrong box !

 

But how do you actually know it's the wrong box? What does the car do or not do?