I just purchased a JL Audio 500/1 amp for my sub and I am looking into the res of the components. Can you guys tell me what is incompatible or a waste of money, etc?

Head Unit: Alpine CDA 9887

Speakers: Focal 165V components

Rear Speakers: need some suggestions

Monster Cable 4 gauge wiring kit

Speaker amplifier: JL Audio slash series 4 or 6 channel


I went into a Al N Eds recently to check out some speakers and I got a suggestion. I was told for better clarity music I could run an "active" system which- paired with time alignment- could treat the tweeters and speakers as 2 separate channels. What do you guys think about this? So I also started thinking about adding 2 rear speakers in the roll hoops and going with a 6 channel JL amplifier. Is this dumb as hell or would it be a recommendable setup?

 

I think you'd be better off going with a Pioneer, Kenwood, or Eclipse deck (just for the SQ factor), but other than that, stick with the JL amp. Can always adjust the gain down. 300Wrms doesn't mean it can't run lower. And it leaves room if you decide to upgrade your components later...

I also suggest that rather than purchase an amp install kit, you purchase the wiring off the reel (always add a bit of length to power/ground estimates to ensure enough for those unexpected issues) and pick your own RCAs as well. This helps to ensure you don't have a lot of spare wiring hanging around your car (and probably will cost about the same).

 

I think the setup is fine. But that amp for the components is probably way too much, the internal amp on the alpine is probably enough for your components to work off of. Especially since you wont be running rear speakers.

 

The internal amp on the alpine (or any HU, for that matter) is at most going to push 15Wrms. That is nowhere near enough to power those components. If you're going to install, install right. An amplifier makes a huge difference.

 

I appreciate the response. I have two questions based on your response.

1. What are some good suggestions for a HU? I can get the Alpine for $225 + tax from Al and Eds. It has time correction, DSP, a great EQ and a host of other crap to maximize the sound quality of my setup + it has the ability to have the USB input with the appropriate module.

2. what if I do not upgrade my components in the future? Can I still stick with the A2150 amp by JL? I can run 75 watts RMS at 2 ohms @ 12.5 volts.

 

You're welcome.

I'm really not familiar with the Pioneer and Kenwood line-ups. I only run Eclipse nowadays (CD7100 approx $550-600). I can assure you that Pioneer and Kenwood both have HUs that match the features of the Alpine for approx the same price without having the nasty harshness in the 3k-5k range Alpine HUs are known for (I know all about that, I used to run Alpine HUs - 7995 and 9815). Give me a bit to research and I'll see what I can find. What is a good price range? $225 is the max?

Unless those components are 2-ohm, you won't see the 75Wrms, only 45Wrms. Still an improvement over the internal HU amp, but not enough to really show off those components (half their rated power handling). It would also hurt your future upgrades. Where the 300/2 would start out needing the gain turned down to protect your speakers, the A2150 would be underpowered for the Kappas and not bring out the qualities of an upgraded set of components later down the road. Look at it like this:

To start with A2150:
A2150 + Kappa components = $250 + $225 = $475

To upgrade:
300/2 + XXX component set = $320 + $300+ = $620+


To start with JL 300/2:
300/2 + Kappa components = $320 + $225 = $545

To upgrade:
300/2 + XXX component set = $0 + $300+ = $300 +


Saves you $250 in the end for putting up $70 now since you don't have to replace the amp when you upgrade later

For a little more though, you can pick up the Diamond Hex series or Focals. Either of which would be better than the Kappas. It all depends on how much you want/are able to spend right now.

There are benefits to putting up the $$$ now. The Diamond Hexes range from 45Hz - 22Khz, the Kappas from 75Hz - 23Khz, and the Focal Polyglass from 60Hz - 28Khz. By going with the Diamonds, you don't have to lose your mid-bass frequencies as much as with the Kappas, etc.

Both the Diamond Hexes and Focal Polyglass sets can be found on Ebay for $200-300 Buy-It-Now NIB.

 

Are these the Focals you are referring to?
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...product_id=1154

It is rated at 50 or 60 watts RMS. Therefore, the JL A2150 would be fine for that type of better, correct?

 

You'd want to get the Polyglass 165V (6.5"), but yeah. Again, remember that it will limit your upgrade path if you decide to upgrade your speakers down the line to speakers that have a higher power requirement.

 

We can fit 6.5" components in our car without modification?
Please send me a direct link to the Focal system you are talking about.
Would the JL A2150 sound nice with these speakers?
Any suggestions for a good HU?



And again, I dont think I will be upgrading my speakers in the future; unless the ones you are suggesting are shit in the first place.

 

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=1165

I didn't use the mounting rings for my Diamond Hexes (the basket on the Diamonds was too wide to fit into the rings), but they fit just fine in the door. A little bit of modification would be worth the extra bit of low end freqs you'll get from the 6.5" speaker.

LoL....they're not at all a bad speaker. Just never know where your install path may lead. Different sets of speakers reproduce sound differently, and it may be that some day you decide to go with a different set of speakers. I've paid for many amps that didn't go with my upgrade path...I learned to be aware that I might decide to change the speakers some day, and in doing so, try to future proof my audio purchases...and after years as an electronics tech, I try to pick amps that I can run under their rated max power - they tend to stay more stable and run cooler, both of which prolong the life expectancy of any electronics.

From the looks of it, the Focal 165V and the JL A2150 would be a well matched pair. A little more powerful amp wouldn't hurt (better to turn the amp down than to have the amp cranked to it's max), but that's relatively minor.

As for head units, how much do you want to spend, and how important are the features you listed?

The Eclipse CD5100 has all the features you want (time alignment is presets and only 3 band EQ) with better sound quality and the USB jack built in (not an extra option), but costs $400 or so.

The Eclipse CD8445 has all the features minus the USB drive (does have memory stick capability) but runs just over $300.

The Pioneer Premier DEH-P6900UB has your features minus time alignment for the same price as the Alpine and won't have the harshness either.

Of course, you can go further up in the price range with Pioneer and you'll get the time alignment options. It's all about what you're willing to pay. If you have to have all the options you mentioned above at that price, then go for it - there is a trade-off (as I hope you're starting to see, that's a trend, lol). For a little more, you can have all your options and better sound quality - but only you can decide what your price point is and how important all these features are to your listening experience. I highly suggest you take a CD that will really stress the entire listening range (classical is great for this) and visit your local custom audio shop. Use your CD and the same high-end set of speakers and change nothing but the HU and see which you like the best.