I'm going to be running a dual amp setup, and found this wiring kit:

http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-PKD1-0-1...Q2em118Q2el1247

I've read a few places that I need separate fuses for each 4 guage power wire coming off the distro block. Is this true or is the single 300 amp fuse ok?

Also, there is only one turn-on lead with this kit. Is it ok to splice into this to run turn on leads for both amps?

Last question- this is the speaker wire I'm looking at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...n%3D4%26ps%3D42

Is 16 gauge ok for ~150 watts to each speaker?

Thanks!
Zac

 

16 ga wire is fine for 150w to door speakers. That's easy. Now:

You need separate fuses for each of the wiring legs, including the main feed into the distribution block PLUS any legs from distr. block to amplifiers. The fuses should be sized to trip before the rated ampacity (max amp capacity) of the wire section that its protecting. Without fuse protection the wire could overheat and cause a fire.

The link you provided didn't work, but your description raised concern. A 300 Amp fuse would only protect extremely large gauge (4/0) wire. No "real" amp wiring kit will come with a cable this large. But then, no two "real" car amplifiers would draw 300 amps anyway. That's 4200 watts!

Do yourself a favor and be safe. Get a pro to install the amps. Or if you must do it yourself, use quality hardware like Rockford Fosgate amp install kits and learn about the ampacity limits of the wires in the kit. And verify the fuse sizing from any one of the many sources available on the internet.

 

Here is an updated link for the amp kit:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...cker+PKD1.html

Thanks for your advice! Do you have any reccomendations on cheap fuses for each of the "legs"? They will be 4 ga. off of each. What amperage do you reccomend?

I've installed multiple systems so I am pretty familiar with the install, I only have these questions because this is my first time installing system with more than one amp.

 

Also- I have a 1/2 farad capacitor that I've been using for a while with one of my amps. Is it ok to have a capacitor on one of the "legs" after the distro block and not the other?

 

amp wiring:
for most people, 4 gauge is probably sufficient (good to about 1000 watts)
1/0 will be greater cost, greater weight, greater difficulty installing (but
if you need the power, then you need the power!)
fuses:
every time you split off a smaller wire, it should be separately fused.
easiest and most reliable is to get a distribution block with built-in fuses.
you always want to use the smallest possible fuse that will carry enough
current - since each amplifier no doubt has built-in fuses, the fuse leading
to an amp should have roughly the same total amperage as the fuse(s)
specified for that amp.
you also need a fuse near the battery, which should be roughly the sum of
the two fuses leading to the two amps. unless you have huge amplifiers, a
300 amp fuse sounds way too big. 300 amps x 12 volts = 3600 watts, even
if your amp is only 50% efficient still means 1800 watts of amplifiers!
wire:
16 ga is fine for 150 watts.

also, here's a useful site: http://www.bcae1.com/

 

Yea, I had used 14V (alternator output) in calculating 4200 Watts. And I din't give an ouput wattage since they may be class D amps (more efficient).

For all this stuff, I would go by the manufacturer's recomendations. The capacitor mfr website should have data on fuse sizing, as should the amp mfr's. Might take an hour or two to get all the data from mfrs websites, but it's worth it. Then you KNOW what you're dealing with.

And Oth is right, just add up the two amp legs to get the main feed circuit from the battery.

 

Normally, I'd say just attach it to the distr block where the battery cables tie in. If you must put it out at the other end of the amp wire leg, put it on the sub amp terminals.

 

snakeeater and I were apparently both writing at the same time, hence
the redundant info (good thing we agree!). my 3600 watt calculation
was not intended as a correction, I just made it explicit so someone who
doesn't know might say "oh, so that's how you figure it out."

 

I got the link now. Kicker makes good stuff. But I'm not sure how they're protecting a 1/0 gauge with a 300 Amp fuse. The ampacity rating depends on many factors including the temperature rating of the insulation, etc. Try to get the ampacity of the wires from Kicker's website.

This kit is missing a distribution block anyway. I would find a more complete kit with distribution block & fuses. Try Rockford Fosgate. Their kits are well engineered and not that much more expensive.

 

There are two distribution blocks included in the kit.. one for the + and one for the ground.

Im going to install an inline fuse at each of the 4 ga + legs after the distribution blocks per the advice yall have given. I have a friend with this wiring kit in his es300 powering a 2000 watt JL setup and it has been great. Not to mention- i got this kit for 120 shipped on ebay, and the 4 ga inline fuse holders from rockford are only 7 bucks each at best buy.

Thank you guys for the advice! I'll post pics of the install