I have my Alpine MRV-T320 amp mounted over the fuel filler next to the spare tire. I was cruising around with the top down this weekend (80+ outside) and after about 1hr - 1 1/2 hr of cruising my amp shut off. I checked and it was really hot, so I'm assume it overheated. Turned the car off and back on and the amp came back on.

Anyone else with this amp placement have this happen, and under what conditions? Could someone suggest an alternate mounting location if you think this is going to be a recurring problem?

Also, does gain have any effect on an amp heating? My gain is way down with the OEM headunit, should the gain be higher and volume lower on the headunit?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by KeithD
[B] . . . Also, does gain have any effect on an amp heating?

 

Not a bad idea. This was the first time I've been out for a long time driving with the top down and the volume cranked. I've never had a problem with the top up.

 

The traditional way to adjust the volume controls when you have two (one on the head unit and one on the amp) is to turn the gain on the amp down to the minimum. Turn the volume on the head unit up until it starts to distort and then back off a little. Return to the amp and turn the gain up until you hear distortion once again and then back it down a little. Now you are ready to control volume on the head unit only.

 

Please be careful with the type of fan you pick up...if it's a DC fan with commutators, sparks are likely at some point, and there's no guarantee that area is completely free of vapors. Better safe than sorry...

 

I wasn't too keen on the fan idea. I was thinking about cutting some vents in panel that hides it. Maybe I'll order a new one from Honda and see what I come up with.

No problems today. Maybe the moral of the story is dont blast my music for 2 hrs straight...

I supposed I could have the amp moved into the trunk. Do you all think it would make a huge difference?

 

You could use a fan in the area behind the drivers seat to suck warm air out and pull cooler air in through the other side vent. Anytime I've had an amp overheat it was only cutting out a small percentage of the time, but too hot to operate safely, consistently. Since heat is a electronics killer, cooler is better.

I use a ten inch fan blower thing (uses a long turbing type thing to move the air rather than typical fan blade) and it works perfectly for cooling that area. I cant conceive fumes being in this area anymore than in the trunk. Statistically a higher likelyhood, yes, but real world environment, not likely...

Just my opinion

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by MacGyver
[B]Please be careful with the type of fan you pick up...if it's a DC fan with commutators, sparks are likely at some point, and there's no guarantee that area is completely free of vapors.

 

Neverclear is it possible to get a picture, and a part number for this fan?

Modifry, how would I hook said fan up?

Pardon my ignorance, but I'm very new to car audio stuff.

 

Well, you've got 12 v power at the amp, plus a turn-on lead from your HU or the ignition circuit. You should use a low-current relay (.1 amp or less) and wire the relay coil to ground and the turn-on lead. Then connect +12 through the relay contacts to power the fan. Generally if you find a 12v relay that is rated to switch 1 or 2 amps, it will be a low current coil (example) . Heavy duty relays that can switch 20 or 30 amps usually draw about a quarter amp just for the relay, so you shouldn't use that type.

Do not try to run the fan directly from the turn-on lead, most HU's won't supply more than a couple hundred milliamps, and the fan may draw more than that.

You should be able to get a replacement 12v computer fan at Radio Shack for about $5.