Passenger side window troubleshooting
Hi all - my passenger side window wouldn't go up. I wanted to share my trouble shooting thus far as I haven't seen this failure mode before so maybe it will help someone.
First, checked fuses... no issues there.
I took the door card off, removed the plastic lining, immediately noticed the regulator was really hot. I suspected it was getting 12V to go down constantly. I disconnected the plug and my multimeter confirmed this. (Although when I moved the passenger switch to up, the voltage went to zero.)
I suspected the driver side switch was bad. When I disconnect the switch, voltage goes to zero, not surprisingly.
I took the switch apart as I had seen someone else said something about using passenger side parts to repair the driver side. I was hoping it was a modular thing where you could just swap the pieces. Not so... however, when I disassembled the driver switch, I found that the little plastic arm that pushes the linear potentiometer (if that's what it's called) was broken for the passenger side. So apparently, it was stuck in "go down" mode.
In this video, you can see how the switch is damaged - https://www.flickr.com/gp/jasonwang/Z8yR6eP37q
I was hoping the switch would make the window work if I moved the potentiometer manually. No such luck. I can hear something clicking (relay I assume) when moving the potentiometer, but the window doesn't move. I'm assuming the regulator is burned out after being asked to go down for so long. Here's a video of the driver side PCB working for the driver window, but only clicking for the passenger side window - https://www.flickr.com/gp/jasonwang/KT2hHY3R62
Is it possible to only buy the plastic switch for the passenger side button? I'd rather not pay nearly $200 for the whole assembly if I can just replace that one piece.
If anyone has any advice on what else I should check or anything else relevant, please let me know.
First, checked fuses... no issues there.
I took the door card off, removed the plastic lining, immediately noticed the regulator was really hot. I suspected it was getting 12V to go down constantly. I disconnected the plug and my multimeter confirmed this. (Although when I moved the passenger switch to up, the voltage went to zero.)
I suspected the driver side switch was bad. When I disconnect the switch, voltage goes to zero, not surprisingly.
I took the switch apart as I had seen someone else said something about using passenger side parts to repair the driver side. I was hoping it was a modular thing where you could just swap the pieces. Not so... however, when I disassembled the driver switch, I found that the little plastic arm that pushes the linear potentiometer (if that's what it's called) was broken for the passenger side. So apparently, it was stuck in "go down" mode.
In this video, you can see how the switch is damaged - https://www.flickr.com/gp/jasonwang/Z8yR6eP37q
I was hoping the switch would make the window work if I moved the potentiometer manually. No such luck. I can hear something clicking (relay I assume) when moving the potentiometer, but the window doesn't move. I'm assuming the regulator is burned out after being asked to go down for so long. Here's a video of the driver side PCB working for the driver window, but only clicking for the passenger side window - https://www.flickr.com/gp/jasonwang/KT2hHY3R62
Is it possible to only buy the plastic switch for the passenger side button? I'd rather not pay nearly $200 for the whole assembly if I can just replace that one piece.
If anyone has any advice on what else I should check or anything else relevant, please let me know.
Can you put the PW (passenger window) switch in the DD (drivers door) permanently (at least temporarily waiting a solution) in the neutral position? Wedge it some how? I'd think the PW would still work using the switch on the PD and when the roof goes up or down.
But $200 for a direct replacement is very simple...
-- Chuck
But $200 for a direct replacement is very simple...

-- Chuck
Passenger relay clicks, but regulator motor does not respond. Could be regulator motor like you said, but what about relay itself?
Clicking just means the electro magnetic part pulls the switch closed, doesn't mean switch actually makes electrical contact. Could be burnt or corroded relay contacts, etc.
Easy enough to test. See if 12V is getting to regular when that relay clicks (or ohmmeter relay contacts as you activate it).
You tested voltmeter at regulator while manipulating switch, but that was external switch. You haven't yet tried voltmeter at regulator while manipulating actual switch at board level.
You seem like someone veey capable of replacing a board soldered relay.
Clicking just means the electro magnetic part pulls the switch closed, doesn't mean switch actually makes electrical contact. Could be burnt or corroded relay contacts, etc.
Easy enough to test. See if 12V is getting to regular when that relay clicks (or ohmmeter relay contacts as you activate it).
You tested voltmeter at regulator while manipulating switch, but that was external switch. You haven't yet tried voltmeter at regulator while manipulating actual switch at board level.
You seem like someone veey capable of replacing a board soldered relay.
No, the passenger switch doesn't just plug in on the DD side. I think if you disassemble the actual plastic switch itself, you might be able to make that work. I was actually able to swap switches with another car and got the window to go up. It was not consistent though... it took some back and forth but it did eventually go up. So maybe the regulator is on it's way out? Regardless, I still need a new driver side master switch assembly (if not the plastic button at least.)
Can you put the PW (passenger window) switch in the DD (drivers door) permanently (at least temporarily waiting a solution) in the neutral position? Wedge it some how? I'd think the PW would still work using the switch on the PD and when the roof goes up or down.
But $200 for a direct replacement is very simple...
-- Chuck
But $200 for a direct replacement is very simple...

-- Chuck
Ah, you mean the relay on the driver side master switch PCB? That's a good idea. It would be cheap to try if I can find a part number for that relay. Anyone happen to have that handy?
Passenger relay clicks, but regulator motor does not respond. Could be regulator motor like you said, but what about relay itself?
Clicking just means the electro magnetic part pulls the switch closed, doesn't mean switch actually makes electrical contact. Could be burnt or corroded relay contacts, etc.
Easy enough to test. See if 12V is getting to regular when that relay clicks (or ohmmeter relay contacts as you activate it).
You tested voltmeter at regulator while manipulating switch, but that was external switch. You haven't yet tried voltmeter at regulator while manipulating actual switch at board level.
You seem like someone veey capable of replacing a board soldered relay.
Clicking just means the electro magnetic part pulls the switch closed, doesn't mean switch actually makes electrical contact. Could be burnt or corroded relay contacts, etc.
Easy enough to test. See if 12V is getting to regular when that relay clicks (or ohmmeter relay contacts as you activate it).
You tested voltmeter at regulator while manipulating switch, but that was external switch. You haven't yet tried voltmeter at regulator while manipulating actual switch at board level.
You seem like someone veey capable of replacing a board soldered relay.
Google Lens.
Last edited by windhund116; Oct 14, 2023 at 07:01 AM.












