I have what may be a dumb question: Why do most (or all) s2k'ers cut the black plastic speaker basket rather than removing it altogether? It can't be waterpoof, since it's vented. I found when I installed my PA db6501s (which, incidentally, I think I do not like), I just removed the speaker baskets altogether and found it was easier to mount my adapter bracket to the door this way.

Am I missing something?

 

because theyre modifying the stock speaker basket to fit the aftermarket speakers instead of using aftermarket adapters.

 

Most speakers do not come supplied with the proper side adapter plate. So you can either cut the stock basket out or you can purchase or make the adapters yourself.

 

^^This. I just cut up mine to reuse them for my new speakers.

 

Sorry to hijack the thread (a little) but what did you not like about the polk speakers vs the OEM ones. I was looking at those(Polk Audio db651s) from Crutchfield - since it was one of only 3 that would fit per their guide. Also, since the polks come with a built in tweeter did you disconnect the OEM tweeter or just run 2 tweeters in each door? Excuse me if that was a stupid question - I am sound system ignorant.

 

Since your car already has components you should just install a replacement set of components Otherwise its going to sound weird... I take it you've not replaced speakers in a car before?

 

Winter: I may have actually changed my mind about the Polks. First, a word of warning: I <3 Crutchfield, but their fit guide is shit. They told me the Alpine Type-R 6x9s wouldn't fit in the rear shelf of my Acura (which already had 6x9s), and they were the easiest of 6 speakers to install and had plenty of clearance. They also don't list Alpine Type-S speakers as fitting our cars, but i installed one in the passenger door of my AP1 and had it there for a week. And that brings me to my next point.

Why did I dislike the Polks? First installed them, with a Kenwood Excelon HU, and they sounded really one-dimensional: ultra tinny highs and lackluster lows and mediocre volume without distortion. I kept comparing (unfairly, I realize) the sound of my $200 Polk components to the 6 coaxial speakers in my Acura (four Alpine Type-Ses in the doors and the aforementioned 6x9s), and it sounded more full and rich in the Acura. Yes, I know: more speakers, enclosed space, yadda yadda.

So I changed headunits. Slight improvement. Then I added a baby digital amp (Alpine KTP-445U, bridged to 90w per channel), and it was about the same. (That was my fault, because a decent IQ doesn't exempt one from doing really dumb things sometimes.) So I fixed that error. Then I played with the parametric equalizer on the HU, and matched the amp sensitivity ("gain") to the power coming off the HU. I was pretty pleased when I was testing the settings, but then even at <50 MPH (top-down—always top down), I became disappointed again with the sound. As it turns out, that was because the midbass driver was dead. So, I just kept having to work and work at getting the Polks to sound good: a completely different experience from installing the coaxials in my Acura.

But when I had to pull the Polk speaker out for a warranty exchange, I replaced it temporarily with a Type-S from the Acura. (I took out the crossover and tweeter, too.) Then I did a sound test, because I was afraid my $90 coaxials were just as good as my $200 components. Wrong! The Polk blew the Alpine AWAY! No comparison. So I felt better—much better about the quality of the component Polks. And I like that they are marine-rated (good for a convertible).

Which reminds me, DarkKnight: I'm certainly no expert, but I don't think the OEM setup is component. I say that because there is no crossover before the wires split off to go to the tweeter and the mid, and I don't think there are separate pinouts on the radio harness for highs and lows. I think that's why there is only one set of input wires for the aftermarket crossovers and not two (you tape off the wires that went to the tweeter).

P.S. The Polk adapter brackets fit great, and my speaker baskets are in a box with the OEMs. BTW, the OEM speakers sounded like crap when I installed the aftermarket headunit. The Polks (or any other aftermarkets of decent quality) are a vast improvement over the OEM speakers.

 

And to answer the other question about the two tweeters in the door: no way! My ear is sensitive to shrill highs. I even disconnected the OEM dash tweeters in the Acura after installing the Alpine coaxials. But beyond having extra tweeters and the logistics of installation, my understanding (no wait, this is what I saw in the wiring diagram in the Helms manual, so I am confident this is right) is that there are two wires for each door that start at the vehicle's audio harness. Then from the first two wires, the two wires branch off and go to the tweeter. Since that is the case, then if you were to keep the stock tweeter along with the new component tweeter, you'd get less power to the components, where it splits off. And if you have an amp, keeping the stock tweeter = another channel on the amp. If I am wrong, someone jump in. But be nice. I know karate. :-D

 

Oh no, you are correct with that thought process, the OEM speakers are NOT a true component setup, However they do have resistors on the back of them, to block certain frequencies... which is kinda, sorta what a real x-over does, just a x-over does it correctly. So we're both right.

Anytime you start to mess with a stock system, its best to install new if its within the budget If you installed a new head unit, just plan on running new wires to the speakers from the HU or the Amp if you're installing one. Let face it the stock system sucks... its true for most cars honestly... lol

 

Hey John, If I am replacing the stock speakers in my '02, what components would your recommend? I still have the factory head unit and would prefer to keep it.