I am looking for advice on which one is better

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/compare_ite...t_id%5B%5D=2742

thanks for ur help

 

Go listen for yourself. Everyone's ears are different. Don't buy based on published specs alone.

 

I would steer clear of aluminum coned anything. Aluminum cones resonate (not just have a tendency, they WILL - it's physics/chemistry yo) and that distinctly affects the sound reproduced.

 

thanks for the input.

any other advice?

 

neuterd sputnik runs the Diamond hexes I think?.

so do many folkes here.

you dont' need spacers to install the Hexes either.

Infinity Perfect 6.1 is not full aluminum. it's MMD cone. and one of the best components sets for our car but needs spacers.

I had them in my previous s2k and loved them. but not as much as the Hex, aluminum tweeters were too bright on the Infinity's IMO

 

Ok, so, here's what I would suggest:

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=1619


Keep in mind that I haven't measured what the cutout in the door is, so I'm not sure if those will fit the cutout. You'll have to use a 3/4" spacer for them to fit. Those are also 8ohm speakers (designed for a home theater), so you'll have to invest in a powerful, quality amp. An 8ohm load will roughly halve the amplifier output into a 4ohm load.


The S has a mounting depth of approx 2.25, with a 3/4" spacer, that gives you approx 3" of mounting depth (or 75mm) if you want to search the site for other woofers.

For tweeters, go with the SEAS Prestige Neodymium off the Madisound website.

 

imo, forget about the infinitys....

what do you listen to most of the time? what other equipments are you using? And the most important factor is how much are you willing to spend

 

Claus,

I listen to hip hop and R&B, mostly. I am going with this headunit: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Pro...mier/DEH-P710BT

And I am willing to spend about $1000 give or take a few bucks.

 

While I no doubt agree that the potential for an active setup is greater than passive, wouldn't you have to concede that a less than optimally configured (by the end user) active crossover is likely to sound worse than a high-end passive crossover designed by the speaker manufacturer to the characteristics of the speaker components they have selected? Or is the window/range of active frequency crossover points sufficiently large enough to allow for something close to "haphazard" pairings of tweeters and midrange drivers?

 

The window is large enough for most speakers that you'd really have to try to mess up the sound of an active setup.

I know I've personally shifted the HP xover from- a few points within the 2K-5K range and back down to 3K (where it is now). Mids I've had crossed LP at 2K-5K and settled back on 2.5K and the HP crossed from 63 all the way up to 120 and back down to 80 (and with various slopes).

Basically, as long as you're keeping it reasonable, there's no reason that an active won't sound better than passive.