To sub, or not to sub ...
Alright I know how much you guys hate when people don't use the search function .. BUT I've honestly searched around and all I could see is a bunch of technical terms that I don't understand ... can you guys find me some threads that involve a complete noob trying to figure out what he needs to do to have a decent sound system in the S and the procedures. I have absolutely no where to start, how much anything costs or what to look for. HELP A BROTHA OUTT 
This is what I expect with a decent sound system:
1. Planning to have a lot more bass than the OEM system (I like to bump up the bass to the max when listening to my rap
)
2. Planning to play Rock/Hip-hop/Trance mostly

This is what I expect with a decent sound system:
1. Planning to have a lot more bass than the OEM system (I like to bump up the bass to the max when listening to my rap
)2. Planning to play Rock/Hip-hop/Trance mostly
do you plan on getting a new hu as well? or just a sub and amp?
i got a elemental designs 13.kv3 @ 500w rms and love it. it was only 100 bux and its like jl quality. if you like rap music like me, and play bass songs with extended notes rather than just 'punches', i would opt for a high excursion subwoofer such as eD and jl's that move a lot of air.
id recommend 300w rms or more for your case.
my sub (12")
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_i...&products_id=31
my class d amp (class d is more efficient for subs)
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainmen...fiers/KAC-8103D
a component set (to replace storck speakers)(running them off the HU's power is fine for most bass loves because we dont care about mids and highs
, but another amp is preffered for clean power)
I believe these are quite well priced and high quality component speakers for the s. http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products...s/6-1-2/db6501/
jl class a/b amps are good for componets
and buy a headunit of your choice. many users here suggest alpine for its quality and compaitbility with the s's dash controls. but you are open to whatever you like.
expect to pay around 200 bux for the amp and sub together (ebay is the way to go, stores are way overpriced). and add the cost of your HU.
http://www.crutchfield.com is a good place to look to decide on parts and get information on sizes and specs. however they are a bit over priced.
also add for your speaker set and amp if your getting one.
as far as links. just type "install" into the search bar in the electronics forum or hit next a couple times to got to some older pages. i remember a couple of threads like that a couple of weeks ago. also check the stickies
here are some you may be interested in:
pic
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=473951
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=502778
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...=0&#entry889323
advice
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0&#entry1407694
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0&#entry3631759
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=553346
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0&#entry1445604
specs and info
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=295344
how to
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=261466
i got a elemental designs 13.kv3 @ 500w rms and love it. it was only 100 bux and its like jl quality. if you like rap music like me, and play bass songs with extended notes rather than just 'punches', i would opt for a high excursion subwoofer such as eD and jl's that move a lot of air.
id recommend 300w rms or more for your case.
my sub (12")
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_i...&products_id=31
my class d amp (class d is more efficient for subs)
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainmen...fiers/KAC-8103D
a component set (to replace storck speakers)(running them off the HU's power is fine for most bass loves because we dont care about mids and highs
, but another amp is preffered for clean power)I believe these are quite well priced and high quality component speakers for the s. http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products...s/6-1-2/db6501/
jl class a/b amps are good for componets
and buy a headunit of your choice. many users here suggest alpine for its quality and compaitbility with the s's dash controls. but you are open to whatever you like.
expect to pay around 200 bux for the amp and sub together (ebay is the way to go, stores are way overpriced). and add the cost of your HU.
http://www.crutchfield.com is a good place to look to decide on parts and get information on sizes and specs. however they are a bit over priced.
also add for your speaker set and amp if your getting one.
as far as links. just type "install" into the search bar in the electronics forum or hit next a couple times to got to some older pages. i remember a couple of threads like that a couple of weeks ago. also check the stickies
here are some you may be interested in:
pic
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=473951
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=502778
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...=0&#entry889323
advice
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0&#entry1407694
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0&#entry3631759
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=553346
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0&#entry1445604
specs and info
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=295344
how to
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=261466
I've been searching for WEEKS through Electronics posts and this is what I've finally settled on, maybe it'll help you out as well:
HU: The new Alpine CDA 9886
Doors: Polk db6501
Sub/Enclosure: W Laurent 8" Box (v1) with JL 8w3v3 Sub
Amp: Alpine MRP F550
Also going to pick up a Modifry DCI so I can keep the left side dash controls, and plan on Dynamatting the doors an trunk. Also going to look at removing or at very least modifying the convertible trunk tray so the bass can get through to the cabin as I've read about on several posts.
HU: The new Alpine CDA 9886
Doors: Polk db6501
Sub/Enclosure: W Laurent 8" Box (v1) with JL 8w3v3 Sub
Amp: Alpine MRP F550
Also going to pick up a Modifry DCI so I can keep the left side dash controls, and plan on Dynamatting the doors an trunk. Also going to look at removing or at very least modifying the convertible trunk tray so the bass can get through to the cabin as I've read about on several posts.
If you're going to sub, go with the bigger one. Whether you get an 8, 10, or 12, the box is the same size for all. Get the 12 and you'll get better freq response for the kind of music you'll be listening to.
Image Dynamics makes a great low-volume required subwoofer line. IDQ.
www.imagedynamics.com
Image Dynamics makes a great low-volume required subwoofer line. IDQ.
www.imagedynamics.com
An 8" sub is PLENTY for an S2000. Yes, even with bass heavy songs. More is not always better as you have to move the airspace around a bigger sub. Meaning you GENERALLY need a bigger box for a bigger sub. I think a 12" is just plain overkill for an s2000, and to do it right you would completely lose the use of your toolwell.
An 8" sub in a WLAURENT enclosure is a GREAT setup, if you are completely swayed by "bigger is better" than get a 10" sub for the WLAURENT box.
You will need an amplifier to power the sub. Get one matched to the sub. If you buy one from WLAURENT, then get the specs you need from him. Generally you will be talking about power in terms of watts. There are two variations on this rating, one is PEAK power (worthless spec, COMPLETLY worthless) or RMS which is a rating is sustained power over time. This is generally noted as RMS, but might be WRMS (watts rms.)
Here again, bigger is NOT always better. 500RMS output to a sub that can only take 100WRMS is a disaster waiting to happen. Feeding 100WRMS to a sub that wants 500WRMS doesn't work very well either.
Generally speaking, adding a sub with ANY power to it, is going to overpower the stock system in a hurry. You may like bass, but I doubt you like it THAT much. So upgrading your speakers and putting a (seperate) amplifier to them is a very good idea. Again, try to match your ratings here too.
As the saying goes, garbage in --> garbage out. So replacing the Head Unit (HU) is ALSO strongly reccomended, especially when running amplifiers and aftermarket speakers.
An 8" sub in a WLAURENT enclosure is a GREAT setup, if you are completely swayed by "bigger is better" than get a 10" sub for the WLAURENT box.
You will need an amplifier to power the sub. Get one matched to the sub. If you buy one from WLAURENT, then get the specs you need from him. Generally you will be talking about power in terms of watts. There are two variations on this rating, one is PEAK power (worthless spec, COMPLETLY worthless) or RMS which is a rating is sustained power over time. This is generally noted as RMS, but might be WRMS (watts rms.)
Here again, bigger is NOT always better. 500RMS output to a sub that can only take 100WRMS is a disaster waiting to happen. Feeding 100WRMS to a sub that wants 500WRMS doesn't work very well either.
Generally speaking, adding a sub with ANY power to it, is going to overpower the stock system in a hurry. You may like bass, but I doubt you like it THAT much. So upgrading your speakers and putting a (seperate) amplifier to them is a very good idea. Again, try to match your ratings here too.
As the saying goes, garbage in --> garbage out. So replacing the Head Unit (HU) is ALSO strongly reccomended, especially when running amplifiers and aftermarket speakers.
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Getting the 12 wasn't about being louder. Loudness, in my setup, is a side effect of going for SQ. The freq range of a 12 is lower than that of a 10. That it gets louder is a plus, but not the reason I went 12. I used to have two 10's in my truck. While there was plenty enough bass, it didn't hit low enough freqs for my tastes.
The size of the sub isn't so much about loudness, it's about frequency. I can find a 10" sub that hits as hard as my 12". It just won't hit the same low freqs that my 12 hits. Thus, I encourage the install of a 12. I use the WLAURENT well enclosure. It's no larger than that of the same enclosure for a 10" (again, picking the right sub helps, IDQs are low volume subs).
The size of the sub isn't so much about loudness, it's about frequency. I can find a 10" sub that hits as hard as my 12". It just won't hit the same low freqs that my 12 hits. Thus, I encourage the install of a 12. I use the WLAURENT well enclosure. It's no larger than that of the same enclosure for a 10" (again, picking the right sub helps, IDQs are low volume subs).
Originally Posted by Neutered Sputniks,Jan 4 2008, 04:17 PM
The size of the sub isn't so much about loudness, it's about frequency. I can find a 10" sub that hits as hard as my 12". It just won't hit the same low freqs that my 12 hits.
Size matters but larger doesn't mean louder. Size tells you what is the frequency sweet-spot to expect i.e. how low/high of a note the sub can play. The bigger the sub, the lower it can play but at the same time it'll perform worse in the higher bass note.I'd go for a 12" for small enclosure as well if all you want is loud, because 12" will also allows you to play lower and power rating are generally higher (more metal, larger voicecoil, etc.) Also important is to look for one with a higher sensitivity rating and larger Xmax.
With the S, it's all about power when it comes to sub IMO. With the top down, it's mostly the car tailgating you that'll hear your sub
I used to run 800W RMS into a 600W RMS sub in the S and that's just adequate with the top down on the highway playing hiphop/trance and rap. For most people, I think 300W RMS is more than enough. However, it won't cost you too much more to find an entry level amp/sub that's double the power rating so go with the max power sub that you can afford. On the other hand, it'll cost you an arm and leg if you later find out that your amp/sub is not loud enough.
Originally Posted by RS2000,Jan 4 2008, 11:35 PM
Size matters but larger doesn't mean louder. Size tells you what is the frequency sweet-spot to expect i.e. how low/high of a note the sub can play. The bigger the sub, the lower it can play but at the same time it'll perform worse in the higher bass note.I'd go for a 12" for small enclosure as well if all you want is loud, because 12" will also allows you to play lower and power rating are generally higher (more metal, larger voicecoil, etc.) Also important is to look for one with a higher sensitivity rating and larger Xmax.
With the S, it's all about power when it comes to sub IMO. With the top down, it's mostly the car tailgating you that'll hear your sub
I used to run 800W RMS into a 600W RMS sub in the S and that's just adequate with the top down on the highway playing hiphop/trance and rap. For most people, I think 300W RMS is more than enough. However, it won't cost you too much more to find an entry level amp/sub that's double the power rating so go with the max power sub that you can afford. On the other hand, it'll cost you an arm and leg if you later find out that your amp/sub is not loud enough. 
most 12's can get to a lower freq than most 10's, including the infrasonic range which to me is sweet. you can FEEL the bass.
its also good to have more power than ur current tastes i guess, because if you ewver get the urge[I], u can just turn it up louder/ set gains a little higher than before to get the desired output without a total system upgrade.
dont forget that the box tells a lot about how ur sub will play. i prefer a 12" sub in a large sealed box in order to get the deepest freqs.
Sealed = tighter cleaner, flat freq range, can get down lower without risk of sub unloading.
Vented = about a 3db boost at around port freq, "sloppier" performance (not as tight), probs with gowing below port freq.
Bandpass= mainly for spl.
listen to a couple setups/ box ans sub combos to find out your taste.






