Who here has successfully put a sub in the cabin of the S2K and is getting good, tight, clean bass and plenty of volume?

I've seen the photos of the S2K with the 8" Kicker L7 in the center console, and I've seen a few people put the JL 6.5" sub below the dash. I've also seen one 8" sub put in the passenger side footwell.

For those that have an in-cabin sub, are you getting plenty of bass and volume?

I currently have a 10" sub in a fiberglass enclosure in the tool well, but I'm considering removing it and putting an 8" sub in the cabin. I'm not pleased with the "boomy" bass or excessive rattling in my trunk, so I'd like to know if I can get enough sound in the cabin.

Ideas?

 

If you can get an 8" sub in the cabin, I wouldn't think twice about it. A 6W0 sounds real good in the cabin. An 8" would be awesome. The in-cabin sub doesn't get lost on the interstate... even the 6W0. That's what I like most about it!

Good luck and let us see pics when you're done!

-Garrett

 

Thanks for the info!

I'm trying to see if we can do an 8" sub in the cabin, as I am not satisfied with the 10" sub in the custom fiberglass enclosure in the trunk. I have plenty of power and can feel the bass through the entire car, but it's at the expensive of major rattling and a "boomy" sound in the trunk.

I thought about doing the 6W0's, but I know that they probably wouldn't give me enough of what I want, but I am impressed with them.

I'll let you know what I decide. I'm still trying to get ideas of where to put a sub in the cabin, and how to do it to get plenty of sound quality and volume.

 

Still got that fiberglass enclosure eh? Is it sealed now, or still ported??

Nate, there are literally hundeds of S2000 owners out there with subs installed that are not having your problem. Why not just copy what one of them has? You ignored the advice you recieved here the first time and now you are unhappy. Maybe you should revisit some of that advice.

Obviously you can't use me as an example because I don't have a sub, but there are plenty others here who I am sure could steer you rignt.

 

I didn't ignore the advice. The stereo shop kept ignoring the advice I had received and said I wanted to do! No matter how many times I told them what I wanted, they kept veering away from it and wanted to do something else. Now, I wish I had gone to another shop in town and did something much more simple (JL Audio 500/5 for the system and a different sub).

Well, if it's just a matter of my sub/enclosure choice, then that is an easy fix (rather than doing a whole new enclosure for inside the cabin).

I still would prefer a sealed enclosure with an Eclipse sub (aluminum or titanium?).

Would that really make enough of a difference? Maybe it would now that I'm pushing much more power with the MMATS amp on bass. In fact, I could tell the difference between the Memphis amp and the MMATS immediately. It was like the sub had come alive. The volume and amount of bass increased immensely! But it got a whole lot boomier with more rattling!

So, if the key is a different sub in a sealed enclosure, what should I use to go with the MMATS (700.1) amp? Eclipse aluminum or titanium?

 

I have the S with the 8" L7 in the center console. It sounds great and I get plenty of bass now. I have two 10" L7's in the trunk too, and with those turned down(produces to much rattle with them up) the in-cabin sub provides more than enough bass.

 

I can't believe how bad that shop screwed you over...

Usually the "boomy" sound on bass is attributed to a ported enclosure. I think this may very well solve your problem. With that MMATS amp (glad you liked it) you have the power to run darn near any sub you want, but that Eclipse Aluminum in a sealed enclosure might make you really happy now, and you can keep the gains turned down on that amp. This way, you get tight bass, less boomy sound, and you don't have to dim the lights every time a bass note hits.

There should be PLENTY of advice here regarding building a sealed, mdf, 1.0 cuft box for that Eclipse sub.

I think now you understand what I was saying about giving the sub enough power to work, and why you weren't going to get there without a dedicated sub amp.

-P


[QUOTE]Originally posted by natedoggs2k
I didn't ignore the advice. The stereo shop kept ignoring the advice I had received...

 

Oh yeah, I completely understand about having a dedicated sub amp, and the difference is night and day. And everything else is AWESOME! I've grown accustomed to the Clarion 745 and recently hooked up my Sirius radio (it's pretty sweet!). The Audison sounds great with the Focals, and the MMATS is more than enough power. It's just that the sub needs fixing.

I told the shop that I want to put an Eclipse sub in a sealed enclosure. So we'll work on doing that later this week.

I was wondering if I should get a cap for the system (because of the lights dimming when the bass hits). Will I still need one? Or will the change in sub/enclosure stop it from happening? I'm afraid I may be pushing too much power for the system with a cap.

 

I'll be interested in hearing the answer to this. I've heard mixed things about using caps, so I'll sit back and sponge off the info you get!

 

I've never been a fan of them or felt the need to use them, but in this case, I'm not sure if I'm running too much power and may necessitate its use.

You figure that I have 950w if you take both amps and calculate max power. The Audison is actually running 120x2 @ 4ohms. In reality, it's not pushing that much because the Focals only need 80wrms.

I shouldn't be pushing the full 700w on the sub either, although, I'm probably pushing the MMATS amp more than the Audison.

It'll be interesting to hear of other's opinions on the use of the cap or not. To me, it's an added expense that I shouldn't need (I hope).