Originally Posted by wirejock

Just in case someone needs help with this problem, mine stopped working recently. Here's what I checked and what I fixed.
1. Fuse # 26 under the drivers side. It's the top one on the right side. 15 A Checked fine.
2. Fuse in the main panel under the hood. #34 I think. Checked fine.
3. Applied power to #1, ground #2 of the solenoid connector in the trunk. Looking at the connector # 1 is left, #2 in the middle. Positive is Black/yellow stripe. just a touch of power to the positive terminal should activate the solenoid. Checked fine.
4. Checked for power and ground at the connector coming from the wire loom. No power or ground when button is pressed.
5. Opened the wire loom where it snakes past the driver's side trunk hinge. It feeds into a larger loom near the rear deck. Both hot and ground pull out freely. Both are broken. Since my car is stock, it must be a design flaw. Opening and closing the trunk eventually caused the wires to break where it is wire wrapped really tight to keep it from moving.
The fix was as follows.
Cut the wire wrap under the rear deck. One black wire wrap holds it in place. Completely open the plastic duct over the four wires feeding from the corner panel to the trunk hinge enough to work on the splice. Bare all four ends 1/2 inch each. Cut two pieces of equivalent size wire 3" long. bare all four ends of the short pieces. Cut two pieces of shrink wrap long enough to cover both splice points with one piece. Slide one on each of the longer existing wires. The ones from the trunk were longer. Twist one pair at a time, solder then move to the next pair till all four splices are done. Test the trunk switch. If it works, and it should, slide the heat shrink up and heat it. Tuck the wires back into the loom. All done and it should look just like it did before.
Honda, calm down with the wire wrap. Way too tight.

Originally Posted by lopez14

are you guys holding the trunk button of the fob? You have to actually hold that one not just push it like the lock/unlock