As the topic states, just curious to see who's doing what. Feel free to elaborate on drivers, crossover points, what worked, what didn't, so on and so forth.

 

I haven't started my audio build yet but I plan on it. I will be using the Hertz High energy components with Audison SR4 amplifier and the Audison Bit Ten D processor.

 

My setup is pretty standard:
20hz -63hz
63hz-200hz
200hz-3,100hz
3,100hz-20khz

Crossing the subwoofer higher than 63hz tends to pull the stage back. I do 80hz sometime but only to same my midbass from stress.
I only run the door midbass up to 200hz. The distortion in my driver is pretty high past 400hz or so and cannot be crossed with the tweeter.
200hz up in the pillar to have a high soundstage.
One speaker covers the entire telephone band range (300hz-3,000hz). Crossovers in this range are usually bad as the phase distortion is more audible. The dispersion patterns between a tweeter and a 6.5" speaker are also quite different at the top of this range.
The crossover point at 3.1khz ensures that the tweeter is not overdriven and at the same time satisfies center-to-center requirements. There are 3 inches or so between the tweeter and the midrange which would require a cross point no higher than 4,5khz. In a car we are in nearfield and that rule of thumb is not restrictive enough. Ideally I should cross at 2.2khz but the tweeters can't handle that very well.

All speakers play in the omnidirectional frequency bands with these cross points as well.

 

HA! Yours is anything but. I went ahead and bit the bullet on your recommendations. Drivers should be here tomorrow. Waiting on the DEH-80PRS to come out to finish it off.

 

Brace yourself, you got "speakers so loud it blows womans cloths off" Italian Job

 

I certainly hope so, that's the idea.

 

For a 2 way like you could use your crossovers as follows:

The HP should be 100hz at the highest. I've never overdriven that 7" when crossed at 100hz. Crossing it lower will give you a better soundstage (keep the stage up front) down to about 63hz when the subwoofer will take over (and is omnidirectional below 63hz). If you don't have a sub, how low you will cross will simply depend on how loud you listen. A 7" will only move so much before it puts on the brakes. In short 100hz for high output, or lower for better soundstage at the expense of output.

The low pass is trickier. Most of the distortion near the top is tweeter driven. To relieve the tweeter you can cross high like 3khz-5khz. This will also give you very good phase response. The downside is again the soundstage. With high cross points the stage may pull down. The dispersion patterns are also very different for the drivers if crossed high. High output is again a high cross point at the expense of the soundstage.

The B&C has shorting rings and a rising response which makes it great for high crosspoints. You can try 100hz-5000hz to start with and adjust to taste. This way you will make use of it's dynamic qualities. You may even be able to use a stock tweeter with a 5khz crosspoint.

 

goodies came

 

hmmmm... not off to a good start. B&C is looking like it's going to need a 1" spacer. Even then... not sure this is going to pan out without cutting metal.

 

I just laid some fiberglass over the stock plastic spacer. Shouldn't be more than 1/2". I did shave the door panel on the inside. I did cut the metal with a pair of scissors. Then I bent the strips in (6 or so in total). If you ever want to return it to stock just bend them back and screw the plastic onto it. If you are really picky you can solder them back on. It's not structural metal or anything.