Hi Guys,

I actually use this forum a lot but don't post too much. I have a homemade car with an 05, F22C engine. Recently I bought an AEM EMS V2 and have followed a few very good guides on here (https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/946...ems-series-ii/) but still have a few additional questions mainly about the safety stuff and your recommendations for settings.

I built my car from scratch doing everything myself including the chassis. It is a dedicated autocross car which other then launch spends most of its life in 2nd gear as close to the redline as possible. As I am doing the tune myself it is going to be a street tune. I followed a very detailed video series and a couple of threads on here and have a good base setup for fuel and timing to build from. However as it is my own tune from scratch and first time I have tuned an engine so I want to put in some safety measures to prevent damage. Here are a list of things I would like to use and looking for advice on.

Knock Control - I have turned this on but not sure what settings to use, any suggestions. I did quite a bit of driving and had no knock other than from a raised rev limit which I reduced. Knock should not be an issue right now but want to be safe. Timing is currently about 5% over stock.
Current setting which are of the stock tune

• Knock Control on
• Knock control oer cylinder on
• Knock %Rich/Volt 5.0
• Knock fuel add max 10.2%
• Knock Decrease fuel 2.0
• Knock Spark advance 1.8
• Knock rate restore 196.8

Engine Temp Protection (Not sure what typical operating temps are so went for 140-225)

• Coolant Analog Input Coolant Volts
• Cold limit 140
• Hot limit 225
• Rev limit 7000
• Output disabled

O2 Lean out Protection
Not sure what to set up here. I would like to set it so if it goes leaner then 16 under load it will protect the engine

There is also Oil pressure and fuel pressure but I think these need additional sensors from stock.

Main rev limit - I set this to 8500 for now but eventually will go to 8800 as the extra speed in 2nd gear is so important in my car.

• Fuel Cut load 12
• Fuel Cut 8500
• Ignition cut 8400
• Retard limit 12000

Any advice is greatly appreciated, If you want to see the car check out my thread on the Locost forum.

 

NA? Just have knock control pull timing only. I can look at what my knock sensor threshold is when I get home. I tuned my car on E85 (NA), so I raised the voltage/RPM just above the engine noise floor.

Engine temp protection and O2 lean out? Make it do what you want to.

 

Yes my car in NA. Eventually I will progress to E85 and then add a turbo at some point.

I did look at the knock graph/ramp and set the noise floor from about 0.5v at idle to around 1.0v at redline which was consistent with the the noise on a WOT run. I will tweak it after I have some logs from Autocross this weekend.

 

Cool that you are learning to do this yourself. Since you are always in 2nd gear, you are probably pretty safe from really messing something up, and you don't need things to be as perfect as possible at all rpm in all gears like if you were road racing.

Can you tell me what video series you watched. I'd like to watch it also. Thanks

 

Here you go, I don't jump on here much so it took a while to reply..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGRPe93pGsA

I ended up getting some dyno time as the engine was not running well. It turned out VTec was not engaging so I ended up switching to HS2 which is pin B7 rather than B12 and that fixed it.

Since the dyno I have done some engine mods too to recover lost power and hopefully gain a little.

• Injectors rebuilt and flow checked ($100 for 5)- this was amazing you can hear the engine running better and was only $20 per injector. Definitely a regularly overlooked and critical part of combustion.
• New Spark plugs ($50)- Another cheap service item which is critical to the engine. They also tell you what is going on in the engine
• New Throttle body ($200)- I have the 05 engine with throttle cable so went to a 68mm throttle body like the newer DBW engine
• Port match throttle body (Free) - You need to make the intake inlet wided to match the larger throttle body
• Bypassed the coolant (Free) - The coolant passages goes to the throttle body and IAC they are they to prevent freezing in cold weather but I live in florida. I bent the nipple coming out of the front of the Intake Manifold and placed the return hose from under the IAC directly onto the that and removed all the extra hoses and pipes involved.
• Thermal heat shield gasket ($40) - this sits between the intake manifold and block to reduce heat transfer and should lower intake temps by 10-30 degree to help increase or rather not lose power to heat soaking

These mods were already installed

• Light weight pulleys ($100) - Obviously reducing mass reduces drivetrain losses meaning more power to the wheels (already installed)
• 8.8lb Pro-light flywheel ($300) - same as pulleys but more affective especially in the loser gears (already installed)
• Adjusted valve clearance (Free) - 0.008 Intake and 0.0010 Exhaust (Already completed)
• AC pulley removed (Free) - Not much point having AC in a tube frame car (Already completed)
• 3bar map sensor ($100)- Stock one broke
• AEM EMS ($1000) - Lowered VTec to 4000rpm and raised redline to around 8800rpm (Top speed in 2nd is critical so higher than most)

Once i get it back on the dyno i will post numbers