Any tips for tuning ignition timing maps?
Thanks for searching, and sharing that info too. I thought about starting with one of the timing maps included with the FlashPro, but they seem odd to me. What is obvious is that the stock maps MUST BE ADJUSTED if you are going to lower VTEC, since the timing below 6K is WAY too advanced. Retarding the timing is what allowed me to make more power with VTEC lower.
BTW, I just emailed the spreadsheet to you.
BTW, I just emailed the spreadsheet to you.
I just pulled my spark plugs to see if there was any obvious evidence of detonation. The plug in cylinder 3 was the only one that looked "suspect" to me, since it seemed to have some spots on the ground "thing". All the others just looked really clean. I probably only have 2-3K miles on these plugs (Denso IK24).
The plug on the right of the top picture is from Cylinder 3.

Cylinders 1 and 2
The plug on the right of the top picture is from Cylinder 3.

Cylinders 1 and 2
I forgot to mention that I shined an LED flashlight down in the spark plug holes to look at my pistons, and I could clearly see the stampings on the pistons without any "chip" marks on them.
Originally Posted by gernby,Jan 29 2010, 06:33 AM
Thanks for the links. There was a lot of good information and tips about tuning, but I didn't see much that helped with my ignition maps.
I did make some improvements though. I realized that my totally flat high speed ignition tables were stupid, so I went with more of a curve. Now when I look at my WOT datalogs, the timing curve is pretty smooth from 1500 RPM's to redline.

I'm not really sure what the deal is with the knock retard. It doesn't make much sense that the stock map was causing so much knock retard down low. I'm also unable to make the knock retard go away completely, even if I retard timing in the ignition maps or add fuel.
Here is what my high speed ignition map looks like at the moment.

As I improve my timing map, I'm able to lower my VTEC engagement more and more with gains. This is my road torque curve with the "return to stock" calibration (blue) compared to my current calibration (red). BTW, the numbers on the left are just for reference. I don't know how the numbers would match up against a real dyno.

I did make some improvements though. I realized that my totally flat high speed ignition tables were stupid, so I went with more of a curve. Now when I look at my WOT datalogs, the timing curve is pretty smooth from 1500 RPM's to redline.

I'm not really sure what the deal is with the knock retard. It doesn't make much sense that the stock map was causing so much knock retard down low. I'm also unable to make the knock retard go away completely, even if I retard timing in the ignition maps or add fuel.
Here is what my high speed ignition map looks like at the moment.

As I improve my timing map, I'm able to lower my VTEC engagement more and more with gains. This is my road torque curve with the "return to stock" calibration (blue) compared to my current calibration (red). BTW, the numbers on the left are just for reference. I don't know how the numbers would match up against a real dyno.

Originally Posted by ueat1023,Apr 17 2010, 05:20 PM
How did you get this torque dyno like graph
Hi, sadly I'm not a S2K owner (old school CRX for me), but I was very interested in your road dyno calculation and spreadsheet. I've been working on one myself for also trying to get my timing right but I'm having a hard time of getting it to graph correctly.
Also thanks for everyone else on the other tips and links about timing.
supercar96@hotmail.com
Also thanks for everyone else on the other tips and links about timing.
supercar96@hotmail.com
What you want to do is tune for maximum torque using the least amount of ignition advance (assuming you're not knock limited, which is a rare case in modern internal combustion engines). This is where a load bearing dyno comes in handy. On a dyno, you will be able to hold the car at a specific load/rpm cell and see live output of torque. Doing this long enough, you'll start to notice that when you reach peak torque, adding anymore timing will not yield any more torque. Keep adding, and you will eventually start to lose torque/power. Pass that threshold, and you're getting into detonation territory.
So you definitely have the right idea with your datalogs, and I love your approach. My only question is, how accurate is it and how sensitive is the OEM knock sensor?
Best regards,
So you definitely have the right idea with your datalogs, and I love your approach. My only question is, how accurate is it and how sensitive is the OEM knock sensor?
Best regards,
Thanks for searching, and sharing that info too. I thought about starting with one of the timing maps included with the FlashPro, but they seem odd to me. What is obvious is that the stock maps MUST BE ADJUSTED if you are going to lower VTEC, since the timing below 6K is WAY too advanced. Retarding the timing is what allowed me to make more power with VTEC lower.
BTW, I just emailed the spreadsheet to you.
BTW, I just emailed the spreadsheet to you.
Gernby,
I just wanted to confirm that the above statement is correct or not because it sounds really strange to me. I thought that lowering the vtec required the trimming to be advanced, which is the opposite of what you say here.
Also in this later post:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/781...t__p__18560844
you appear to be advancing timming to suit the lower vtec engagement.
I too have advanced timing and added fuel in the range 4-6k as I have lowered the vtec engagement and it appears to be making more power. Unfortunately I have no way of reliable logging knock retard or actual ignition maps as my car is F20c powered with the slow obd port.
Additionally advancing timing lower in the range seems to have improved mpg greatly. Not to mention the nicer throttle response and improved pull. Unfortunately I'm probably relying on knock retard to save me from trouble as I'm on stock ecu... Which is probably not very much different from how Honda does it anyway (I just hope that all the theory about increased knock sensitivity at suspect rpm range applies to the f20c ecu too).






