Can I delete the OEM oil sensor?
Unfortunately, the FR oil filter relo kit doesnt have an extra bung for a sensor.
I'm looking to hookup my AEM oil press sensor in the same place as the OEM sensor. Can I turn off the oil dummy light via EMS?
Is there another (better) location that I can install the sensor?
Thanks in advance for any info
Paul
I'm looking to hookup my AEM oil press sensor in the same place as the OEM sensor. Can I turn off the oil dummy light via EMS?
Is there another (better) location that I can install the sensor?
Thanks in advance for any info
Paul
Originally Posted by macr88,Aug 20 2010, 08:36 PM
I don't recall if it's a normally open or closed switch, if I remember to check when I get home I'll post back but you can either leave it disconnected or just short to ground.
I you leave the wire disconnected then the light will be off.
I was going to do the tee method and I got the adapter for the block since it's a different thread pitch than the senders but I'm just going to get a sandwich plate.
Someone posted this one up in another thread
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bi...tion&key=22-568
Found here
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...ic=220188&st=0
I was going to do the tee method and I got the adapter for the block since it's a different thread pitch than the senders but I'm just going to get a sandwich plate.
Someone posted this one up in another thread
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bi...tion&key=22-568
Found here
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...ic=220188&st=0
wow everyone is up late tonight eh?
Ok so I can just disconnect it and use the AEM sensor in it's place... easy enough. I can do that tomorrow.
Thanks for the quick replies and links! I guess I could have just gone outside myself and pulled it to see if the light came on.
Your efforts are much appreciated!!
Ok so I can just disconnect it and use the AEM sensor in it's place... easy enough. I can do that tomorrow.
Thanks for the quick replies and links! I guess I could have just gone outside myself and pulled it to see if the light came on.
Your efforts are much appreciated!!
Yes, much later than I'd like to be
I think there was something in the tea I had last night. My eyes were 
You're welcome but the thread pitch is probably different so check it against the new sender.
I think there was something in the tea I had last night. My eyes were 
You're welcome but the thread pitch is probably different so check it against the new sender.
Originally Posted by macr88,Aug 21 2010, 09:54 AM
Yes, much later than I'd like to be
I think there was something in the tea I had last night. My eyes were 
You're welcome but the thread pitch is probably different so check it against the new sender.
I think there was something in the tea I had last night. My eyes were 
You're welcome but the thread pitch is probably different so check it against the new sender.
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Paul, you will need to do quite a bit more than just replace it.
First you will need to wire the pressure sensor just like Kevin did back to the EMS (See below)
Then you will need to pull a lead from the either the dash or from the sensors original termination and input that to the EMS.
Then you will need to enable an output in the EMS which is triggered by a function based on the input voltage.
I am not sure exactly if this is going to work but it should.
Boost Controller
D4......High Side Driver......Output......Available Switched +12v. 1.5a max
D16.....PW #2....................Intput......Available Boost Solenoid
**This is not polarity Specific
Pressure Sensor
Black......D9....Sensor Ground..........Input.......Availible Ground Reference
Red........D6....+5V Sensor..............Output......Available 5.0V Reference
Green.....D8.....ADR14.....................Input.. .....Available, 0-5v input (100K pu)
Boost Switch Input [High Boost Switch]
D11......Switch #2....Available Switched Input
To Chasis Ground
Nitrous Input
D12......Switch #3....Available Switched Input
To Chasis Ground
First you will need to wire the pressure sensor just like Kevin did back to the EMS (See below)
Then you will need to pull a lead from the either the dash or from the sensors original termination and input that to the EMS.
Then you will need to enable an output in the EMS which is triggered by a function based on the input voltage.
I am not sure exactly if this is going to work but it should.
Boost Controller
D4......High Side Driver......Output......Available Switched +12v. 1.5a max
D16.....PW #2....................Intput......Available Boost Solenoid
**This is not polarity Specific
Pressure Sensor
Black......D9....Sensor Ground..........Input.......Availible Ground Reference
Red........D6....+5V Sensor..............Output......Available 5.0V Reference
Green.....D8.....ADR14.....................Input.. .....Available, 0-5v input (100K pu)
Boost Switch Input [High Boost Switch]
D11......Switch #2....Available Switched Input
To Chasis Ground
Nitrous Input
D12......Switch #3....Available Switched Input
To Chasis Ground
Originally Posted by dsddcd,Aug 21 2010, 06:38 PM
Paul, you will need to do quite a bit more than just replace it.
First you will need to wire the pressure sensor just like Kevin did back to the EMS (See below)
Then you will need to pull a lead from the either the dash or from the sensors original termination and input that to the EMS.
Then you will need to enable an output in the EMS which is triggered by a function based on the input voltage.
I am not sure exactly if this is going to work but it should.
Boost Controller
D4......High Side Driver......Output......Available Switched +12v. 1.5a max
D16.....PW #2....................Intput......Available Boost Solenoid
**This is not polarity Specific
Pressure Sensor
Black......D9....Sensor Ground..........Input.......Availible Ground Reference
Red........D6....+5V Sensor..............Output......Available 5.0V Reference
Green.....D8.....ADR14.....................Input.. .....Available, 0-5v input (100K pu)
Boost Switch Input [High Boost Switch]
D11......Switch #2....Available Switched Input
To Chasis Ground
Nitrous Input
D12......Switch #3....Available Switched Input
To Chasis Ground

First you will need to wire the pressure sensor just like Kevin did back to the EMS (See below)
Then you will need to pull a lead from the either the dash or from the sensors original termination and input that to the EMS.
Then you will need to enable an output in the EMS which is triggered by a function based on the input voltage.
I am not sure exactly if this is going to work but it should.
Boost Controller
D4......High Side Driver......Output......Available Switched +12v. 1.5a max
D16.....PW #2....................Intput......Available Boost Solenoid
**This is not polarity Specific
Pressure Sensor
Black......D9....Sensor Ground..........Input.......Availible Ground Reference
Red........D6....+5V Sensor..............Output......Available 5.0V Reference
Green.....D8.....ADR14.....................Input.. .....Available, 0-5v input (100K pu)
Boost Switch Input [High Boost Switch]
D11......Switch #2....Available Switched Input
To Chasis Ground
Nitrous Input
D12......Switch #3....Available Switched Input
To Chasis Ground


I think what you're suggesting is to keep use of my dash light with the EMS.
I was thinking of just using the Dashdaq (via EMS like you mentioned) to display the current pressure and eliminating the dash light all together.
So then i should just wire the sensor back to the EMS and and then to the DD disconnect the OEM sensor and be good to go correct?
btw, thanks for that picture. It saves me time from going back to my "thread subscriptions" to look for it.
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