Looking to swap an Ap1 OEM crank trigger wheel to the Honda 13622-PCX-013 crank trigger wheel for a LifeRacing F88 ecu. The hondata guys also swap the crank sensor. I'd like to keep the OEM AP1 mag sensor if possible. Are the trigger wheels the same total diameter?

Would like to get 360 degree firing up and running with just the ref and 1 sync on an ap1 for quick engine starts. That's the overall goal. Need the odd tooth ref wheel to do this.

-Paddy

 

I was hoping someone would chime in on this, I will be doing the same on my ap1 soon.I will be running the syvecs but I have a feeling syvecs and life are the same company?

 

LifeRacing makes the hardware/software for Syvecs. Syvecs supports street cars fairly well. LifeRacing won't support street car projects directly. You've got to have a good dealer.

My longtime calibrator has been a USA LifeRacing dealer for a few years now and loves the hardware. We ditched our Vipec v44 for a F88RL.

Reach out if you have any questions.

-Paddy

 

I only got a side to side picture comparison but from that it looks pretty close.
I can measure my AP1 wheel later today and maybe someone else can check the AP2 (mine is installed now).


Sensor length seems pretty close as well

 

AP1 (should really be called pre DBW) crank trigger wheel outer diameter without teeth is 66mm.
Tooth height is 5mm so biggest diameter is 76mm.

 

I spoke to syvecs and they seem to think I just need to swap my pre-facelift trigger wheel for the face-lift trigger wheel? Didn't say anything about the sensor so I assume that's ok to use the one that's on there now?

paddy what are you doing in regards to the engine loom to run your ECU?

 

So we got it running using all ap1 parts and cutting off 2 of the 3 cam trigger wheel teeth. All sensors and wiring are ap1.

We did the math on what the gains would be to convert to the ap2 stuff for quicker starts and it wasn't worth the labor. We would be starting the car fractions of a second sooner on the ap2. Wasn't worth the trouble to tear the front case off and add a 3rd wire for the ap2 hall sensor.

We made a jumper harness so we can retain the OEM engine loom. We used Richard Welch for the jumper and then terminate to the ECU. Index

-Paddy

 

flanders thanks for the info