Hello,

I just got a Hondata Flashpro I started playing with it but I am reserved since this is my first time, as I do not want to blow my engine or create any damage. I have a few initial questions. Please reserve the just sent it out for an Etune or go get dyno tuned comments. I am actually trying to understand what the heck is going on first.

Power Mods:
K&N FPIK Intake
Invidia Q300 Dual Exhuast
Test Pipe

Questions

1. What does the "Tuned" calibration do, what changes does it make?

Im assuming it works just like the Hondata mail in refresh am I correct in this assumption.
"VTEC point decreased from 6000 rpm to 5600 rpm
VTEC window from 5600 to 6400 rpm.
Rev limit 8500 rpm
Maximum torque gain 14 ft/lbs torque at 5800 rpm
Maximum power gain 16 hp at 5800 rpm"

2. With the current power mods is it safe to run the "tuned" calibration already on the hondata?

I see the Hondata website states that the reflash is safe to run with an intake and exhaust. If I am assuming right the "Tuned" calibration will be my best bet.

3. When Hondata developed the tuned calibration what mods were used when it was created?

4. I've been reading the Toda Header was developed using a header, test pipe, and catback exhaust. Is this tune safe to run with my current power mods, should I avoid since Im running stock headers.

Thanks Guys

 

anything?

 

1.) Can't remember all of the top of my head, but what you could do is view and compare both the "stock" and "tuned" files side by side using two windows.

2.) I think you need a wideband installed and properly operating before I suggest running those maps. Once you do have a wideband, then you can see how your fuel is. Also, watch knock.

3.) I believe it was basic bolt ons. However, understand there are other elements that play into the result(s) of a tune

4.) Again, I wouldn't run anything until you install a wideband. Even then, I don't suggest you run the Toda calibration with the current mods you have.

 

Probably the best solution is the one you don't want to hear.

Get a Gernby road tune and use that as a comparison model if you think it needs changing. You'll have a safe, very powerful car you can go back to rather than going back to a baseline. This is a bit like looking in the back of the algebra text book for the answers and will help you note what the changes do. This is not something you can learn in an afternoon. To be truthful I didn't see any tune loaded in my FlashPro by Hondata, just a myriad of tunes that I assume are pretty safe but didn't meet my engine specs.

Too many settings for me to fool with. Even the "car guys" at Mighty Car Mods and Speed Academy employ professional tuners to maximize performance in their cars. Amateurs like us can cause lots of damage with the wrong settings.

I started with nearly the same bolt-ons you have but with a high flow cat and I dumped the Q300 for the Tanabe Medalion Touring very quickly after the Gernby tune started. 3600 rpm VTEC (plus all the other required changes for it). Mid-range torque and acceleration is very much improved. Max power seems to be 221bhp at the rear wheels on a conservative Mustang dyno (some claim 10% low readings).

-- Chuck

 

 

Ive done a lot of researching reading practically every thread i could find on flashpro tuning and still an amateur at it. Basically you can tune af ratio and chnage vtec engagement effectively on the street tuning. As far as timing goes you can probably change it to up to 29/30 deg after vtec point to redline but thats just my assumption based on several s2000 tunes ive seen from tuners like gernby and autowave. But to be totally safe only real way is to tune timing on the dyno to chexk power so when it comes to this and you dont have the balls to trial and error leave it to the pros. I used gernbys edyno excel chart to confirm i was bringing that notorious dip in torque at the midrange up, not even bothering to compare max power. But its not very accurate. Great tool nonetheless. And free. Ive probably made around 30 wot 3rd gear pulls trying to learn myself and can say my datalog now shows a linear af line from 2k to redline from 14 to 13.6 af corr with 0 knock counts...huge improvement compared to my initial datalog which was very spikey throught the entire rpm range. I lowered vtec to 4k too. The most important part to your system is the test pipe which you do have so running the hondata tune map will def help. Just read your datalogs closely and make the appropriate af changes in columns 8, 9, and 10 in the fuel high tables.

There are a lot of ppl on here who are either afraid or dont have any interest in learning how things work or how to do things themselves and will tell you to just "get it tuned dude". But ive always wrenched on all my cars and simply wanted to know more about our cars and if eventually i could better the tune by putting in the "extra" time no one else would put in for my car. Anyway good luck tuning and hope others more experienced than myself will chime in and help you understand the process of tuning a little better.

 

Oh, and if youre going to use the toda tune make sure you adjust the ign limit high tables accordingly. For some reason all the tables are set to 100 and you will ping like a MF. I had no clue and ran this tune for months thinking i had a vibration problem

 

Holy hell! Months?! But glad to know your engine is still alive after months of high load low rpm detonation. I posted a thread about this on the Hondata forums. I guess you didn't read it. lol

 

Like I said get a professional tune and study what was done and how it works. <---- note the lack of all CAPS here.

Once that is done you can "learn" to your hearts content. And you'll have a safe, high performance tune to fall back on.

Compare your OEM data sheets to the changed sheets and note what was changed -- it's all related. Do you know what this post means or how to make the changes?-- Chuck

 

All in all, learning how to tune fuel is not a tough task, if you are willing to understand how everything works. First order of business, you need to install a properly working wideband, after that, several people including myself are willing to assist you with understanding how everything works. 9/10 on an NA S2000 the first thing to understand is the fuel tables.