So I typically can find anything I need to know about this car without making a thread. However, this ECU seems relatively new to our chassis and there is nothing out there (videos or detailed instructions for our particular car) on how to install.

Has anyone installed this on their AP1 with an AEM X series wideband that can help me out?

 

From my understanding, that ecu fits into our factory ECU case. You plug it in, load up some maps or parameters and go from there. I think there is a CAN harness as well. Why don't you post up some pics and maybe we can work through it.

 

thas what I thought as well lol when I was reading the instructions it made it sound infinitely more complicated though by mentioning installing MAP sensors and IAT sensors.. from my reading recently though it seems the ecu can just use the factory map and iat sensors.

I guess my next question is installing the AEM X series gauge and wideband. I have a berk test pipe with extended bung for the CEL fix and from my understanding I can’t install the wideband in there cause the extended bung won’t allow the wideband to read afr correctly. So I’m gonna install in the upstream o2 bung in the header. So do I just remove the o2 sensor in the test pipe and leave the connector unconnected and cap the bung in the test pipe or do I just leave that o2 sensor in since I’m replacing the factory ecu? Will it throw any codes if I do that?

 

LOL you have a lot of questions here buddie. I am going to try unpacking them one by one.

1) I had to do the AEM wideband this past weekend. I found it nicer to unpin the factory C16 pin for the factory O2 and pin in a new wire that i crimped a pin onto for the AEM 02 signal wire (I think it was WHITE). Follow the instructions for RED 12 V power and BLACK as ground.
2) A wideband O2 should be PRE cat or if its in the test pipe - AEM recommends the sensor element be in the exhaust stream. Having it away from and tucked in the elbow is going to throw off the reading and not be as accurate. YOU WANT this reading to be as accurate as possible.
3) If you are ON a standalone you can disable the secondary O2. If you unpin the stock primary (C16) i am pretty sure you can put the wideband where the stock primary O2 is - each setup is different and you need to double check.
4) On a supercharged AP2 i just did - the owner was insistent on having a High flow cat. I installed an additional O2 bung PRE cat but POST primary O2. It worked out well for his application and his wife appreciated the non-race car smells LOL. I can attach a pic. I wouldn't mess or modify the stock header and hack up or modify the test pipe because its not original in-case you have a change of heart.
5) yes on unplugging the sensor and leaving that connector empty. The issue with unplugging a O2 sensor and then leaving it in the exhaust stream is that these sensors heat up in order to work. When there is no power and they are exposed to high heat you will ruin the sensor and need a new one if you wan to revert back to stock.
6) expect codes for whatever you do - its a trial and error ordeal. If you have a standalone - you wont see check engine lights anymore depending on which standalone you have.

 

I'm very interested in the Link "S2000X" G4X plug and play for my AP1, but as @sonic9 has found, information is scarce since it is relatively new. My main question/concern for the ones who have installed it is, can I keep all OEM features/functionalities? I am referring to cruise control, radio and AC controls, factory dash with factory coolant temp and fuel gauges working, and all warning lights such as CEL. I am okay with having to set CEL parameters myself, but I am not okay with losing the light altogether (in other words, if I can program that light to come on when certain parameters are met within the Link ECU, that is fine).

If Sonic9 or anyone else has this experience, please let me know.

 

Yes it keeps all of the oem functionality. You will need to modify the inside of your ECU case for the new board to fit as it's slightly larger than the OEM. That's it. It's otherwise plug and play. There are expansion ports to add additional sensors but you can utilize the factory ones. The CEL comes on when the ECU flags errors, for instance mine came on when I pulled my intake arm that had the IAT sensor on an started the car. Coolant, fuel, speedo, everything else works like normal.

There is documentation about how I have all mine set up in my build thread linked in my signature.

 

Use the LINK CAN 02 set up. It's all plug and play right into the board. You buy it, as well as the adapter harness for the ECU. My cable was a bit short, so I had an extension made.