OK, so I recently picked up a Flashpro. I've got it locked to my car, and have datalogged with it just to make sure everything works. Its an amazing piece of technology, but it appears to be way over my head.

I'm planning on getting the car tuned eventually, but in the short run, I would like to run the "tuned" program from Hondata. My car is bone stock, so I figure thats the best bet for me for the short term. It will eventually get a HFC and cat-back and then get tuned by someone who knows what they are doing.
However, I would like to drop the rev-limiter back to stock. I've been reading about people bouncing the 8500rpm limiter and seeing over 8700rpm. Considering I'm autocrossing the car, it will deff see the limiter, and I don't feel like grenading the motor.

Can I just download the stock program, drop the limiter back to 8200 rpm and be good to go? I have NO clue what to do with the fuel curves and all that good stuff. Like I said, most of it is way over my head, so I'm trying to do as much research as possible to learn how it works.

Thank you guys very much in advance. I'm struggling to even undertand the massive amounts of data in the datalogs.

 

If you really want to lower the rev limit to 8200, then just load Hondata's "tuned" calibration (New Calibration -> S2000 -> S2000-US-2-Tuned), then change the rev limit (Calibration -> Rev Limits -> Rev Limiter). However, if you want to just soften the rev limiter, and prevent hitting such high RPMs, then you can just retard timing a bunch for the last ~100 RPMs before the limiter. If you autocross, that will allow you to sit right at the limiter without having such an agressive fuel cut.

 

I've been reading thru the rev-limiter thread and trying to digest all the information in it.
When you say retard timing, do I just do a huge drop at say 8400rpm to help soften the limiter, or should I make it progressive starting to lower it at 8400rpm, etc.? Like I said, total n00b to this stuff and am very cautious about making adjustments.

I just wanted to make sure there was no risk in just lowering the rev-limiter on the tuned calibration without changing anything else.

I'm also taking my time to read thru the hondata FAQ section.

 

Open the "Tuned" calibration, and go to the Ignition High table. Right-click on the row at 8500 RPMs, and select "Insert RPM index". It will create a new row at 8450 RPMs. Now right-click on the new row, and select "Edit RPM index", and change the RPM value to 8401. Now select all of the cells in the bottom 4 rows (8401-9000), then right click on the selected cells, and select "Adjust". Enter 10 into the bottom box where it says "Set selected values to". This will greatly reduce power above 8400 RPMs, and will reduce the overshoot past the rev limiter.

After doing this, go to Rev Limits, and change the Rev limiter recover from 8300 to 8500. This will make the rev limiter even softer, and will allow you to stay right at 8500 RPMs with a rapid "nananananana" instead of a "baaaa baaaa baaaaa baaaa" type rev limit.

 

OMG, that makes total sense!!! I see exactly what you are talking about in my head. The overshoot is what I was concerned about, I figure the motor is good for the 8500 revs, but I just hate to see it spin much past that.

Thanks a bunch man! I'm sure I'll have a million questions as I slowly work on my tune.
I'm just making sure I'm not getting any knock counts and that my AFRs look normal (whatever normal is, again, research).

I'm an accountant/MBA by trade. This stuff blows my mind. I grew up working on cars mechanically, I kept a 1986 Porsche running like a champ to 280,000 miles when I sold it including rebuilding the bottom end, but this software blows my mind. Thanks again!

 

Is this what it should look like?

 

That's it!

 

I saw in the other rev limiter thread that you were using -10 degrees at one point, did you discover that 10 degrees was more appropriate?

I can't wait to go flash the car with this tomorrow! I'm going to do a nice 3rd gear datalog and see what it looks like.

 

I probably tried -10, but I believe the ECU ignored it, and just used +10 anyway, so I changed it back to +10 in the map. That was with a much earlier version of software and firmware, so maybe you can retard it more now. I'll try to remember to try it. Maybe you should try 0, just to see what it says in the datalog.

 

Very very cool thread!

Learning to use Hondata is one of the GREATEST parts about owning kpro/flashpro. Soon you'll be able to datalog, pull engine codes, etc etc.

And I think the optimum rate at which air/fuel mixture burns is at 14.7 (stoichiometric), However, with a stock naturally aspirated engine like the f's, you'll want to run air/fuel mixture closer to 13.2-13.5 to keep the engine cooler and safer.