vafc II tune
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Joined: Sep 2007
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vafc II tune
Looking to get a tune with the vafc II (familiar with its limitations) on a MY 2000. Just looking to tune WOT and possibly lower VTEC.
Does anyone know or have experience with a similar situation, with the mods, will the car still be on the rich side of things ? I know ultimately a dyno is the only way to tell a/f but thought id ask.
2nd question, lowering vtec...the ecu will still assume vtec is set from factory, and will still apply appropriate timing for low/high cam...is this a correct assumption and is this an issue?
mods:
FIPK, PLM, FUJI Legalis, possible 63mm HFC
Does anyone know or have experience with a similar situation, with the mods, will the car still be on the rich side of things ? I know ultimately a dyno is the only way to tell a/f but thought id ask.
2nd question, lowering vtec...the ecu will still assume vtec is set from factory, and will still apply appropriate timing for low/high cam...is this a correct assumption and is this an issue?
mods:
FIPK, PLM, FUJI Legalis, possible 63mm HFC
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From: Jacksonville FL/Carolina PR
Suscribed
Im on the same boat as you.
mods:FIPK, 70mmTP, Q300 DUAL, untuned VAFC2
off topic question for you, hows that header,what it hard to install, im looking to buy one?
Im on the same boat as you.
mods:FIPK, 70mmTP, Q300 DUAL, untuned VAFC2
off topic question for you, hows that header,what it hard to install, im looking to buy one?
Joined: Sep 2010
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Looking to get a tune with the vafc II (familiar with its limitations) on a MY 2000. Just looking to tune WOT and possibly lower VTEC.
Does anyone know or have experience with a similar situation, with the mods, will the car still be on the rich side of things ? I know ultimately a dyno is the only way to tell a/f but thought id ask.
2nd question, lowering vtec...the ecu will still assume vtec is set from factory, and will still apply appropriate timing for low/high cam...is this a correct assumption and is this an issue?
mods:
FIPK, PLM, FUJI Legalis, possible 63mm HFC
Does anyone know or have experience with a similar situation, with the mods, will the car still be on the rich side of things ? I know ultimately a dyno is the only way to tell a/f but thought id ask.
2nd question, lowering vtec...the ecu will still assume vtec is set from factory, and will still apply appropriate timing for low/high cam...is this a correct assumption and is this an issue?
mods:
FIPK, PLM, FUJI Legalis, possible 63mm HFC
Tuning with a Dyno is best, but even then, you'll need a wideband sensor to tell you the A/F ratio to let you know how you're doing.
If you just messing with settings on the VAFC, there is no reliable way to tell if your tune is helping/hurting, or down-right dangerous.
Per you lowering vtec question, I don't know that one.
However, for as popular as the VAFC seems to be, there really doesn't seem to be a ton of information out there on it...
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Frankfort, KY
this is a dyno of my car without tuning. The apexi units can take away fuel but can't add fuel. They can also safely lower vtec to 5,000 rpms.
the mods are...
t1r 70r
toda header
fipk intake
t1r pulleys
not tuned
as you can see the car is really rich in the upper rpms. This can be fixed by the apexi unit. I'm switching to a haltech next year so I have my apexi NEO and boomslang harness that I'm willing to sell soon. I'll take $300 shipped for it if your intested.
the mods are...
t1r 70r
toda header
fipk intake
t1r pulleys
not tuned
as you can see the car is really rich in the upper rpms. This can be fixed by the apexi unit. I'm switching to a haltech next year so I have my apexi NEO and boomslang harness that I'm willing to sell soon. I'll take $300 shipped for it if your intested.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 7,340
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The PLM was very easy to install, like many have said. The hardest part for me was that at first I didnt have the car high enough, after that it was a breeze. I believe the newer issued plm's have a spacer so that the exhaust seals up better - nothing a gasket or two cant fix. Love the header, sounds great idling, saved a bit of weight, burned in nicely and seemed to have added a little punch on throttle response and smoothness in midrange. The biggest thing seemed to be after shifting gears, the motor seems want to gooo. -butt dyno
I just hooked up my VAFC2 last week. Haven't done anything with it.
Tuning with a Dyno is best, but even then, you'll need a wideband sensor to tell you the A/F ratio to let you know how you're doing.
If you just messing with settings on the VAFC, there is no reliable way to tell if your tune is helping/hurting, or down-right dangerous.
Per you lowering vtec question, I don't know that one.
However, for as popular as the VAFC seems to be, there really doesn't seem to be a ton of information out there on it...
The Vafc used to be much more popular, probably due to more flexible options becoming available. However, if you know the limitations of the apexi unit, you wont be disappointed in what it cant do. For me I just want to clean up my WOT. If you search, you can find lots of discussion about the unit.
Im aware that messing with the unit without a wideband is bad news. My question was more so related to whether or not the unit would still be effective with basic bolt ons. From what Ive gathered I should still be able to make some gains. It seems the later cars tend to run lean with bolt ons, and early ap1s the opposite. what MY is your S, Josh7?
Originally Posted by starchland' timestamp='1320690462' post='21135615
Looking to get a tune with the vafc II (familiar with its limitations) on a MY 2000. Just looking to tune WOT and possibly lower VTEC.
Does anyone know or have experience with a similar situation, with the mods, will the car still be on the rich side of things ? I know ultimately a dyno is the only way to tell a/f but thought id ask.
2nd question, lowering vtec...the ecu will still assume vtec is set from factory, and will still apply appropriate timing for low/high cam...is this a correct assumption and is this an issue?
mods:
FIPK, PLM, FUJI Legalis, possible 63mm HFC
Does anyone know or have experience with a similar situation, with the mods, will the car still be on the rich side of things ? I know ultimately a dyno is the only way to tell a/f but thought id ask.
2nd question, lowering vtec...the ecu will still assume vtec is set from factory, and will still apply appropriate timing for low/high cam...is this a correct assumption and is this an issue?
mods:
FIPK, PLM, FUJI Legalis, possible 63mm HFC
Tuning with a Dyno is best, but even then, you'll need a wideband sensor to tell you the A/F ratio to let you know how you're doing.
If you just messing with settings on the VAFC, there is no reliable way to tell if your tune is helping/hurting, or down-right dangerous.
Per you lowering vtec question, I don't know that one.
However, for as popular as the VAFC seems to be, there really doesn't seem to be a ton of information out there on it...
Im aware that messing with the unit without a wideband is bad news. My question was more so related to whether or not the unit would still be effective with basic bolt ons. From what Ive gathered I should still be able to make some gains. It seems the later cars tend to run lean with bolt ons, and early ap1s the opposite. what MY is your S, Josh7?
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From: Frankfort, KY
my car is a 2000 model. My harness will work on 00-05.
http://www.boomslang.us/neo.htm $150 harness
apexi neo $350-400 depending on where you buy from
I'd sell it for $300 plus shipping. I think thats a very fair price.
Yea if your just trying to lower the vtec to 5000 and lean out the high rpms this unit is great. The only reason I'm selling it is because I'm moving on the a Haltech unit for next year. I've seen threads of people gaining 10-15whp in the midrange and 8-15whp in the upper rpms.
http://www.boomslang.us/neo.htm $150 harness
apexi neo $350-400 depending on where you buy from
I'd sell it for $300 plus shipping. I think thats a very fair price.
Yea if your just trying to lower the vtec to 5000 and lean out the high rpms this unit is great. The only reason I'm selling it is because I'm moving on the a Haltech unit for next year. I've seen threads of people gaining 10-15whp in the midrange and 8-15whp in the upper rpms.
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Josh, why are you running such a rich A/F ratio in the upper RPM range? If I'm reading your graph correctly, it looks like the red line is the stock tune and the green line is the A/F ratio with some fuel tweaking done with your NEO. Yes? If that's the case, your A/F ratios are very similar in the upper RPM range. Why not lean it out a bit?
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From: Frankfort, KY
sorry if their is any confusion. This graph shows gains from before header and after header. No tuning was done on the car at all at the time of this dyno. The tuning from the apexi came after this dyno day and I don't have a sheet on it because it was street tuned. I was meaning to go back and redyno the car after the tuning but never cared enough to go and pay $80 to do so.
The dyno in the picture above is my car with t1r 70r, berk HFC, t1r pulleys, toda torquie-kun header, and K&N intake. The car had around 140,000 miles on it at the time of the dyno day. Compression numbers around 215-220 each.
The dyno in the picture above is my car with t1r 70r, berk HFC, t1r pulleys, toda torquie-kun header, and K&N intake. The car had around 140,000 miles on it at the time of the dyno day. Compression numbers around 215-220 each.