As the topic stats I found out my head gasket is blown. Really sucks. I've heard several people on here have had the same problem, and some several times. It is a 3mm IP gasket with the OEM bolts. The gasket and kit was installed by IP so I dont think it was an install issue. I am running a GT30R and had the car tuned by a well respected tuner at a conservative 412whp @ 18psi and turned the boost down to 15psi. So I don't think it was an install, tuner, or over boost issue.

I am of the belief that installing a head gasket seems to be a "bandaid' as opposed to building the engine. I also believe that under our cars heat,pressure, and daily use the gasket will fail. Please somebody prove me wrong because I would hate to go back to NA for the wrong reasons.

Questions;
1. Is there a fix for the head gasket issue?
2. How long has anybody had success with a head gasket(miles/time) and what HP are you at?
3. How many hours of labor should I expect to pay my mechanic for the repair?

Please post...

 

we usual get $450 in labor to do a head gasket. on a turbo car a little more because everything else you have to remove and reinstall.
3mm HG with stock bolts? you loose 3mm of threads in the block - I would only do it with studs, this way you know you have enough threads in the block, I would also do lower thermostat and fan switch, the extra heat load from FI and the normal hot running f20,f22 dropping the temps 15-20 deg just a little more insurance. I have used both 2mm cometic and the 3mm IP HG - have success with both, but if it were mine go with IP

 

I feel your pain; been there, done that.

1. Only one I know of is to stop boosting (and we all know that ain't happening).

2. I run 450-530 whp any given weekend, and my stock HG has held up pretty well for the last 1,000 miles. I don't drive it every day, nor do I beat the sh*t out of it when I do.

3. I think $500 for the job is fair.

 

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated. I was thinking of trying the ARP head studs since I have already failed with the oem bolts. I also know torqueing them down correctly is imperative. I've heard of some doing 75pds and others doing 90 + pounds. Anybody wanna chime in on what is best?

 

[QUOTE=bigpurp,Aug 11 2008, 08:43 AM] I feel your pain; been there, done that.

 

All of the work on my car is done by Andres at RAW Racing. They used to be in Davie, but moved a few months ago to the Coral Springs area. Best mech I have ever worked with, and he knows our cars VERY well. Give him a call (954.257.9787) and tell him Aaron referred u.

 

Aaron is the MAN.


Chris

 

Stick with the oem bolts. I had a failure with the arp studs probably due to lift. I am now running an inline rpo 3mm with the stock bolts and haven't had an issue.
If I had the money going with a built motor would be the way to go but if yo ucan be conservative then the HG is the least expensive way to go. Just do it yourself. I did it in my apartment parking lot when mine blew it was my first hg install.

 

Thanks Big Purp! I have met Andres before and know he does good work.

ChefJ, I agree with you on the built motor piece. If I had the extra cash right now I wouldn't think twice about it. Taking my car apart myself is not an option unfortunately..

I'll keep everyone posted as to what the failure was as soon as I get the head off..

If anybody out there is over 10k on a 2mm or 3mm chime in.

 

Headgasket blew on my IP 3mm with brand new oem head bolts at 9 psi.