AEM EMS questions
I'm asking this here, because this forum seems to have the most knowledge when it comes to the AEM EMS.
I have an 05 S2K. My car used to be supercharged before I bought it. It was sold to me NA, but the previous owner left an AEM EMS running the car. He said it was tuned. A receipt I found in the secret compartment car says the model is a 30-1052. Today I decided to take off the panel and actually have a look at the thing, and it looks like this... (not mine, I borrowed the picture)

Any ideas on what that 10-951 number is in white on the face of the box? This is the 30-1052.
Also, my car cranks for a couple seconds before it actually starts up. I've read that this is a common issue with AEM EMS. Occasionally though, it will act like it doesn't want to start at all, which has me worried I'll get stranded somewhere. Is there a way to fix this so that it starts up more like a normal S2000?
And lastly, does this unit, whatever I have, disable the CEL function? I noticed that I had no CEL when I had the test pipe on the car (came with it) and I still have no CEL now that I put the stock AP2 exhaust and cat on there (which I expected).
Thanks
I have an 05 S2K. My car used to be supercharged before I bought it. It was sold to me NA, but the previous owner left an AEM EMS running the car. He said it was tuned. A receipt I found in the secret compartment car says the model is a 30-1052. Today I decided to take off the panel and actually have a look at the thing, and it looks like this... (not mine, I borrowed the picture)
Any ideas on what that 10-951 number is in white on the face of the box? This is the 30-1052.
Also, my car cranks for a couple seconds before it actually starts up. I've read that this is a common issue with AEM EMS. Occasionally though, it will act like it doesn't want to start at all, which has me worried I'll get stranded somewhere. Is there a way to fix this so that it starts up more like a normal S2000?
And lastly, does this unit, whatever I have, disable the CEL function? I noticed that I had no CEL when I had the test pipe on the car (came with it) and I still have no CEL now that I put the stock AP2 exhaust and cat on there (which I expected).
Thanks
10-951.. probably some other code of some other meaning.. i had a 30-1012 and nowhere on it did it say 30-1012... if your Factory ECU harness' fit in the AEM its probably a 1052.. or possibly a 1012
the hesitant start up is ALL AEM EMS .. its a common problem and will always exist .. I believe even on the best tune it will still exist.. it kind of primes the engine and goes through a cycle before startup..
As far as disabling your CEL.. im not 100% but im going to say no it doesnt.. The only UN-Factory thing it does is disable the engine temperature gauge located in ur gauge cluster to always read 1 bar... Which can be corrected with either an external gauge or Modifry ECT
the hesitant start up is ALL AEM EMS .. its a common problem and will always exist .. I believe even on the best tune it will still exist.. it kind of primes the engine and goes through a cycle before startup..
As far as disabling your CEL.. im not 100% but im going to say no it doesnt.. The only UN-Factory thing it does is disable the engine temperature gauge located in ur gauge cluster to always read 1 bar... Which can be corrected with either an external gauge or Modifry ECT
I hated the hesitant start.. Sold the unit.. The Hondata K-Pro is a little more expensive but gives you the quick stock s2000 startup..
And if you have the aem in there tuned for a supercharger which isnt there anymore .. i would either retune it.. or since ur NA possibly pick up a stock ecu for 100 bucks.. and enjoy a more reliable setup
And if you have the aem in there tuned for a supercharger which isnt there anymore .. i would either retune it.. or since ur NA possibly pick up a stock ecu for 100 bucks.. and enjoy a more reliable setup
the slow startup could be a number of things. you'd need to get it a GOOD tuner to figure out the issue. If the car does not sync right away then there may be some changes to a couple of resistors that need to be made.
I started with a 1050 instead of a 1052, but as soon as i put the higher value resistors in the car started up just like stock. almost as soon as you hit the button.
I started with a 1050 instead of a 1052, but as soon as i put the higher value resistors in the car started up just like stock. almost as soon as you hit the button.
Originally Posted by wadzii,Nov 19 2009, 04:09 AM
the slow startup could be a number of things. you'd need to get it a GOOD tuner to figure out the issue. If the car does not sync right away then there may be some changes to a couple of resistors that need to be made.
I started with a 1050 instead of a 1052, but as soon as i put the higher value resistors in the car started up just like stock. almost as soon as you hit the button.
I started with a 1050 instead of a 1052, but as soon as i put the higher value resistors in the car started up just like stock. almost as soon as you hit the button.
I had my car always starting in 2 cranks. First time around to Stat sync the crank and cam sensor, then it would start right up. That is the fastest I could get......still not stock but not perfect.
Help me understand the resisters your talking about.
J. R.
inside the ems.. i dont have my notes here so i cant say exactly which ones, but in my 1050 they were 1k ohm, i swapped em out for 5.5k i believe. there were 2, they are the pull ups for the cam and crank signals
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its all in the tune and tweaking.......
mine starting after some tweaking.
http://h22civic.com/videos/HDRacing/AEMCOLDSTART.wmv
i am not sure how much faster you want it to start then that
mine starting after some tweaking.
http://h22civic.com/videos/HDRacing/AEMCOLDSTART.wmv
i am not sure how much faster you want it to start then that



