01 ap1 106k miles with pfab log kit, rc 750cc injectors, aem v2.

in late september of 2014 i moved from texas to pennsylvania. i trailered the car home and at first the car was starting and running fine with good afrs and no hiccups. recently i drove the car around and stopped to get a small amount of gas to make it back to the garage i was storing it at for the winter.i turned the car off and got gas and went to go restart it and it would only crank, but never turn over. my dash wasnt lighting up during crank so i assumed it was a bad battery.some guy there ended up giving me a push and it bump started fine.. so i got a new battery one. at first it turned on and ran perfect. then one really cold day a couple weeks later i returned to my garage and it would only crank but not turn over. the dash was also not lighting up during crank. there was also a numerous amount of times right after i got the new battery that i would turn it off and go to restart it and it wouldnt turn over. it would just sit and crank. i have been emailing evans tuning and they said it might be a number of things but they thought it had something to do with the tune or AEM. has anyone else had this problem or know a way of troubleshooting? thanks in advance.

 

If the dash isn't lighting up, that sounds like a battery issue more than an AEM issue. Just my 2 cents. You might have something in the car that is slowly draining the battery, which is why the dash won't light after a few weeks. Aftermarket stereo, gauges, gps, radar detector...?

Can you put a voltmeter on it to see how low the voltage drops when you crank it? Also, can you put the meter between the ground wire & the terminal on the battery and read how much current draw there is with the key off?

 

I had a similar issue. But my car wouldn't just sit and crank without turning on. My battery was slowly getting drained because my alternator was not charging my battery. I had a fuse that kept on blowing. But you know what they say, that fuse blew for a reason.


The fuse would just last a couple hours before it blew again, turns out there was a lose hanging live wire dangling right about my AEM V1 that would cause a short when it touch the AEM ems and blow the fuse when driving around.

Tapped that wire up and no more issues.

Check all your fuses first.

 

thanks both those comments were very helpful. im going to recheck everything. hopefully it will warm up soon!

 

Try logging your start channel and be sure to add the battery volt parameter to it when you do. If the voltage dips to 10 or below while cranking then AEM won't fire the coils.

 

"Can you put a voltmeter on it to see how low the voltage drops when you crank it? Also, can you put the meter between the ground wire & the terminal on the battery and read how much current draw there is with the key off? "

and also check it while running if you can. Maybee the alternator gone bad

 

The dash is on a separate computer than the ECU. Probably not the best terms. The dash will light up and go through the sweep even without an ECU plugged in.

I know this from experience as I had been on the phone for a few hours with AEM at one time.

 

If the battery is in the trunk, then you may need bigger leads running to it and/or a better ground. Mine was doing the same exact thing. #1 welding lead wire and the ground ran back to the block did the trick!

 

@afks2k my battery is in the trunk. do you have pics? currently mine will sometimes start right up. but if i turn it off it just sits and cranks. but if i wait maybe 20 30 minutes then it might randomly turn over. is this the same problem you experienced? thanks everyone for the inputs. im going to try everyones advice with troubleshooting as soon as some of this snow starts melting. hopefully ill have this issue fixed before summer !

 

That is exactly the problem i had.

Originally, i had a 4ga power cable and a #2 welding lead grounded on the block. Wasnt enough.

now my power and ground is #1 welding lead (equal to 0ga) and grounded at the block with a #2 welding lead ground from block to crossmember/subframe. Fires up better than stock on e85, everytime!

also, make sure what ever you are using to terminate that power cable to your altenator/starter wires to that its a good terminal. i used a copper #1 butt connectoer, and put the two ( think they were 4ga) altenator and starter cables on the other side.