Hey Fellas I finally took the advice of many (about 1 year tooooo late) and purchased an AutoMeter Cobalt A/F gauge for $260, now the question is what AFR reading am I looking for on the safe side when spraying, 10:5:1 or something like that?

Also When I get my car tuned they are installing it for $150, is that a fair price?

 

install it yourself. take off your HFC and get a bung welded into the FRONT of it. costs 50 bucks or so at any exhaust shop. then run the wiring. its really not that hard.

10.5 afrs are VERY rich. the lower the number, the more fuel there is. you should see a constant 14.7 out of boost just putting around town, and somewhere around 11.5-12.0 under boost @ WOT. these are considered 'safe' afrs, but if you tune for a leaner condition you will actually make more power. i don't recommend this.

if you see any afrs higher than this under boost its time to hit the brakes.

are you telling me that you've been turbo'd this whole time without a wideband? tsk tsk.

 

I know I know, well once I get the bung welded in do I have to connect anything to my E-Manage? I dont want to tune with it, just want it for a read out, also what kind of bung do I want to get, can I go to NAPA and get one?

 

if you are going to use your wideband just for read out you dont have to touch the EMU. there is a lead on the EMU harness that accepts a 5v input for wideband compensation but if you dont want to use it then just leave it alone

as for a bung, whenever i get this stuff done i just bring the cat/test pipe to my exhaust shop and say 'i need an 02 bung welded right here!' they are all standard size. if the exhaust shop does not supply you (they will!) you can probably buy them at any auto store for like 10 bucks.

 

thanks, where do I run the huge wire through from the Dash through the firewall or what?

Also I want to get the bung welded on a slight "up" angle right?

 

Yes you need to have the bung welded at ten or eleven O'clock. (I cant remeber the exact angle but it was included in my AEM wideband instructions).

Also route the wire through the firewall near the drivers clutch petal. just put a cut in the rubber that the OEM wires go through and feed it through that, then route it out of the wat though the trans tunnel and over the trans to the sensor.
I did mine in one night with an autometer dual gauge pod and it came out great.

The ultimate harness also has power out for accessories like this that you can tap into for the gauge power. You can also tap into the power in the main fuse box under the drivers foot well. Do a search and you can find out more about both.

 

Do yourself a favor and cut the cable. Just splice it back together with a soldering iron in the cabin and shrink wrap everything. There was no way I was punching a 1" hole in my firewall. Mount the sensor as close to 12 o'clock as possible to keep water out of it. On the AFR's, I think with our unusually high egt's, a point lower isn't too bad. W/M will allow you to run closer to ideal though, as long as the egt's can be quenched.

Edit: to slow for Turbokev.

 

I would highly recommend hooking the system to the Emanage, it will allow you to do some Auto Tuning to help adjust for variation in climate after your tune. It will also allow you to log all of your AFR vs. several other parameters. I would also recommend pulling the down pipe and welding the bung there rather than TP or cat. Just try and mount it 5-10 inches away from the turbo so it does not get too hot. This way you will have a less likely change to run into problem with air entering the stream if anything comes loose. On another note your optimal AFR's will change when you are using Water/Meth injection.

 

you dont have to punch a hole in the firewall, and you dont need to cut your sensor wire either.

there is a rubber grommet just behind the clutch pedal that pops out very easily. punch a hole through the rubber and run your sensor that way. i ran my sensor this way and then when i got under the car i ran the wire over the tranny so nothing on the ground could 'grab' it.

as far as what angle to do, i've never heard of this? like sqtb said i can only see having it put in at a certain angle just to keep water out of it. i've never paid attention to what angle to install them at and they've all worked fine for me.

 

hmmmm, sounds pretty simple, I will give it a try, do I have to remove the CAT to have them do it or can they weld a bung while its on the car........ I have a feeling I know the answer to this.

ALSO the directions say it reads for FUEL/METH/and something else do I have to let it know what I am spraying for an accurate reading?