http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/cae60b89.mp4

So when the car gets up to 185 and above coolant temp, the idle starts to act like this. Can't figure out what it is. I did the video and never touched the gas pedal. The bottom gauge is my AFR, the top is my serial gauge. I switched back and forth from rpm and coolant temp. it's vortech V2 setup, ID 1000's, AEM FPR & fuel rail, and FB 340 fuel pump. Any help is appreciated?

Edit: yes, I have done the mapwack. I also forgot to mention that I've got a SOS 3 bar map sensor. I will get the graph in a bit.



UPDATE: Thanks to Induction Performance. They helped me with my cal file and I got to drive the car yesterday without it dying or shuddering from a drop in RPM's. It did also reach about 215F and was not hesitating or dropping rpms. Just got a new file that I'll be uploading as soon as the weather permits. Awesome awesome help from them.

 

Firstly the image doesn't work it just says "posted image", you've got to use the proper posting method for videos/urls.

From there:

To start with please confirm you've done the mapwack. Search it if you don't know what I'm talking about.

Next, please post your warm up graph/table showing your idle decrease as temp increases.

Want to rule some things out that are simple. Once the video is working that'll help me out a lot.

 

Is your Wideband O2 hooked up? Cause its pegged to full lean the entire time? Should be sitting ideally around 14.7:1 or somewhere close to that

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mb4VmDd0ao

 

It is hooked up. That's how the tuner set it up. I've wondered if it was too lean but got mixed responses. I think I made a post about it a while back because my serial gauge and afr gauge don't read the same.

 

too lean link

 

You should double check your wiring on your wideband and run the test on the sensor as posted in the YouTube video above.

You should be trusting the A/F ratio on the actual aem wideband gauge and not the serial gauge.

With the serial gauge you are relying on your tuner to set up the correct sensor in the aempro as well as the correct parameters in the aem gauge software (which most people have difficulty doing)

Run the test on the wideband and if the wideband checks ok then it looks like you are running far too lean

 

^ This. I think that sounds correct.


A very lean setup will surge, though I'm used to hearing it under some load. I believe at idle a very lean condition can cause what you're having at the moment. If that's the case you really need to not run it until it's fixed again.

First figure out your sensor gauge issues though but don't drive this thing anywhere until we know for sure what the AFR really is. At idle a very lean mix will cause damage but not nearly as quick as it would under load.

Why don't you yank a spark plug and snap a good pic of the ceramic portion and tip, I'll tell you right away if you're lean or rich and some other issues just by looking at the plug in 2 seconds.

 

This is from last month, March, where I took two out just to look at.

 

See those little specs on the ceramic portion? They're pieces of the internals of your motor because you're running too hot. The electrode erosion that's starting to occur also supports this. Your motor IS being destroyed, you're seeing your piston material adhere to the spark plug.

Before anyone reads further, really the only way to accurately read a plug is a WOT nice long pull and then shut the motor down immediately after and pull the plugs. I'm taking into account that didn't happen in my readings here.

The fine black carbon is a sign of being slightly rich but here's the thing, the car runs different at different RPM so it's no longer so simple, what we know for sure is the specs are signs of the motor having been way too hot though it has more than a full turn of light soot which would say rich. This means somewhere in the range from idle to WOT your car is running unsafe. That's the bottom line, even if your AFR was safe your motor could simply bee too hot due to overly hot charged air or some other reason. It'd be great if you had an EGT gauge. Don't bother looking at the porcelain color to establish AFR, it isn't accurate. Back in the old days of leaded fuel there was a bit more to be had from the porcelain in terms of AFR.

The ground strap has a line at the last 30% or so, that's fine, it's probably a SLIGHTLY cold plug but certainly within range. EDIT>>>> After another look it's hard to say if that's the line or if it's all the way at the base where the soot starts, in which case you're far out of proper plug temp range, I don't THINK this is the case but it's certainly a possibility.

Reading plugs can tell a large range of issues occurring. It's somewhat of a lost art as EFI has taken over but many know at least the basics of it, it's not that complicated.

FOR SURE YOUR MOTOR IS BEING DAMAGED, PLEASE DON'T RUN IT IF IT IS LIKE THIS NOW , those little balls of metal on the plug are aluminum from the pistons.

Who tuned the car btw?



-Greg