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Balancing the rotating assembly

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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 05:48 AM
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Dr Jekyll's Avatar
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Default Balancing the rotating assembly

So i just got my block back from the machine shop, I got it sleeved and added a block guard. And now im wondering if i should get the whole rotating assembly balanced? Ill be using Crowler H beams and CP pistons now too. What do you guys think?
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 05:57 AM
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always, make sure to give them the clutch/fw and damper as well.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 12:07 PM
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the dampner and flywheel/clutch are all zero balanced.

as long as the rods and pistons all weigh the same it will be balanced

even the cheapest of the cheap honda motors I have built were all dead on or extremely close to it straight from the factory.

end of the day its just another precaution to take in the build.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 02:04 PM
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I said balance it, peace of mind. Little money now instead of more money later
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 02:07 PM
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the only issue is the bob weight changes so depending on the rod piston combo

I take my last post back lol balance it!
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 02:10 PM
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I work at a machine shop and I personally balance cranks. We do alot of B Series Honda cranks and sometimes they are pretty close and some times they are out a few grams. If you were doing a budget build out of parts just laying around in something that wasn't getting sleeved i would say don't bother (some of you may laugh, but you'd be surprised lol ) But something that you have alot of money into I would recommend it. We always get people that ask if we can check it and see how bad its out but by the time you set it all up your half way done the job so i doubt a machine shop will just check it for you. Thats my $ 0.02
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by H4RD ON
I work at a machine shop and I personally balance cranks. We do alot of B Series Honda cranks and sometimes they are pretty close and some times they are out a few grams. If you were doing a budget build out of parts just laying around in something that wasn't getting sleeved i would say don't bother (some of you may laugh, but you'd be surprised lol ) But something that you have alot of money into I would recommend it. We always get people that ask if we can check it and see how bad its out but by the time you set it all up your half way done the job so i doubt a machine shop will just check it for you. Thats my $ 0.02

just the crank I agree with you, the issue is the change in bob weight with the heavier H beam rods and different pistons
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 07:01 PM
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At 8-9K rpm, a few grams off balance equals excessive wear and tear on the bearings. Now multiply that by 500+ HP and imagine what your engine is going through.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 11:20 PM
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I Manage a Performance Machine Shop and Garage and I am in the middle of building a F20/F24 with H-Beams and Wiseco Pistons, You don't wanna skip this step! It will cost you $175-225 depending where you live and if they have to add any mallory or take metal away. 4 Cyl usually don't get static balanced like a V8 but you need to get your crank Balanced Dynamically.
Everything will have to be weight and takin into consideration, Flywheel/Flexplate, conrods, Bearings, Pistons, Rings, wrist pins, Locks, even clean, wash and dry your parts from oil before you weigh it. All rods and piston have to match each other within 1-2 grams,
Dont quote me word for word, I'm just the manager at our shop but thats what we had to do.


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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 04:50 AM
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^^^I agree, its a step you dont want to miss in an engine that will be living in the 9k rpm range.
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