Battery, EPS, Fusebox Fitment?
How does everyone have this part of the car set up? I do not want to relocate anything most importantly. If I clock the fuse box so its out of the way it interferes with the EPS module. Those that have the fusebox clocked where did you put your EPS module? Also how do you guys have the battery set up?
As far as the heater controls go, how did you guys mount these? I think I could get away with just modifing the stock bracket so it sits more flat against the firewall. Thanks for the help guys
Martin
As far as the heater controls go, how did you guys mount these? I think I could get away with just modifing the stock bracket so it sits more flat against the firewall. Thanks for the help guys
Martin
For that heater control you are right, I just zip tied mine so it was parrallel to the firewall. I put the battery in the trunk which most everyone does anyway and the fusebox was just turned sideways like you stated. Ill see if I can find a decent picture of my old pfab setup so you can see. With some setups you are able to get away without relocating anything and on others its a different story. Lemme see what I can find...
Is there any way you could order some .060" aluminum stock from McMaster-Carr like I did and make a nice heatshield to fit in the stock location with that manifold? If so, you could do that and not have to worry about relocating anything.
The battery needs to be moved to the frame rail or trunk.. The FR kit comes with a bracket to move both the EPS module and rotate the fusebox. You can move/relocate the heater lines but they will still need some sort of heat shield, esp with the V1 and V2 FR mani's.
Originally Posted by Spoolin,Jan 7 2010, 08:55 PM
Is there any way you could order some .060" aluminum stock from McMaster-Carr like I did and make a nice heatshield to fit in the stock location with that manifold? If so, you could do that and not have to worry about relocating anything.
That would be awesome if I did not have to move things around. I am not sure if the fusebox in the stock location will clear the manifold runners. I would have a better idea if I could get this manifold on. The wastegate flange hits the frame rail. I put it in on an angle, all kinds of ways nothing works. I just can not move it towards the firwall enough to align the studs. It seems like I will have to jack the motor up a little.
Originally Posted by minitoyota,Jan 7 2010, 09:25 PM
The battery needs to be moved to the frame rail or trunk.. The FR kit comes with a bracket to move both the EPS module and rotate the fusebox. You can move/relocate the heater lines but they will still need some sort of heat shield, esp with the V1 and V2 FR mani's.
Here is a picture from berlinas2k2 car(please let me know if you would like your picture down). This is how I would like to have things set up. Only thing is that my fuse box overlaps with the EPS module when its in this position. Are 06+ fuse box or EPS a little different?
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Originally Posted by Shftat9k,Jan 8 2010, 06:03 PM
Yeah Chadd I will be going with an ATP sheild. Sarek is running one on his FR set up. It is made for the FR manifold, which makes it look really clean. I will be adding more sheilding as well.
That would be awesome if I did not have to move things around. I am not sure if the fusebox in the stock location will clear the manifold runners. I would have a better idea if I could get this manifold on. The wastegate flange hits the frame rail. I put it in on an angle, all kinds of ways nothing works. I just can not move it towards the firwall enough to align the studs. It seems like I will have to jack the motor up a little.
That would be awesome if I did not have to move things around. I am not sure if the fusebox in the stock location will clear the manifold runners. I would have a better idea if I could get this manifold on. The wastegate flange hits the frame rail. I put it in on an angle, all kinds of ways nothing works. I just can not move it towards the firwall enough to align the studs. It seems like I will have to jack the motor up a little.
Have you tried pulling all the exhaust studs off the head to see if that will give you enough room to put the manifold on? Then you can set the manifold up there and just screw the studs back in afterwards.
You should also, if you havent already, look into getting an AC line relocation kit from Ghettocrxsi. They run around $200 but will get those stock AC lines out of your way.
As for the fuse box, you can try to do what I did and it may get it out of your way enough but still be in the stock position. I unbolted mine and took a dead blow hammer to the bracket that is on the shock tower to force it over towards the passenger fender about .5"-.75" and bolted it back up. It moved my fuse box over towards the fender about .5"-.75" but kept it in the stock position. There is also that other bracket that is under the fuse box on the other side and attached to the fender area. You will just have to force the fuse box over and it will bend so you can get that bolt back in on the bracket located on the shock tower. Try this and see if it will work for you.
Originally Posted by Spoolin,Jan 8 2010, 06:41 PM
I sent my new turbine housing to Miguel at ATP and he made me a really sweet custom fit turbine cover. They make some nice stuff for sure.
Have you tried pulling all the exhaust studs off the head to see if that will give you enough room to put the manifold on? Then you can set the manifold up there and just screw the studs back in afterwards.
You should also, if you havent already, look into getting an AC line relocation kit from Ghettocrxsi. They run around $200 but will get those stock AC lines out of your way.
As for the fuse box, you can try to do what I did and it may get it out of your way enough but still be in the stock position. I unbolted mine and took a dead blow hammer to the bracket that is on the shock tower to force it over towards the passenger fender about .5"-.75" and bolted it back up. It moved my fuse box over towards the fender about .5"-.75" but kept it in the stock position. There is also that other bracket that is under the fuse box on the other side and attached to the fender area. You will just have to force the fuse box over and it will bend so you can get that bolt back in on the bracket located on the shock tower. Try this and see if it will work for you.
Have you tried pulling all the exhaust studs off the head to see if that will give you enough room to put the manifold on? Then you can set the manifold up there and just screw the studs back in afterwards.
You should also, if you havent already, look into getting an AC line relocation kit from Ghettocrxsi. They run around $200 but will get those stock AC lines out of your way.
As for the fuse box, you can try to do what I did and it may get it out of your way enough but still be in the stock position. I unbolted mine and took a dead blow hammer to the bracket that is on the shock tower to force it over towards the passenger fender about .5"-.75" and bolted it back up. It moved my fuse box over towards the fender about .5"-.75" but kept it in the stock position. There is also that other bracket that is under the fuse box on the other side and attached to the fender area. You will just have to force the fuse box over and it will bend so you can get that bolt back in on the bracket located on the shock tower. Try this and see if it will work for you.
for the OP here is how my FR is setup:
not my but a good pic for you







