yea it was 105 degrees chasing down a few Porsches. Pushing hard on the track.

I then did 40 miles today on the roads ranging 80-85 degrees so it’s only a track issue.

 

For those who don't track the car, 205 sounds crazy. For those that do, that's just getting warmed up with some good laps back to back.

Street driving is very different from tracking in terms of heat generation and management.

 

If you are blowing up the dipstick either the o-rings on the dipstick are shot and/or you've got a lot of blow-by....usually its the latter.

 

105°C as in 221°F is what we are talking about.
Just checked an old log on my car and it was rock solid at 90°C (194°F) even after 15min track sessions, this is with an upgraded Koyo rad and no boost.
At same time oil temps did reach almost 130°C (266°F) measure in the sump, no oil cooler except the stock heat exchanger thing.

 

Still undecided on the solution,

I read that you can replace the PCV on an F20C AP1 with a 90 degree Non Turbo Supra PCV but that was non turbo so not great, so was thinking on an inline Supra Turbo PCV to make it better.

I think im also going to change my catch can to one like the below with two inlet ports and ill take some hose on my next track day. If it blows i will then vent to the catchcan and try that.
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/obp-...-tank-7000510/

Also ill turn around the dipstick around and if it blows and ill also make a clamp down bracket which ill maintain in my toolbox. (O rings on dipstick seem really good with a strong hold, might replace as there only be a few ££)

All options open

 

This will help...https://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/Dip...Kit_p_918.html

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...a62c626f86.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...cc38d7b654.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...b1b89171e5.jpg

 

I've never been a fan of bandaiding things with something holding the dipstick down. The best solution is to find out a good fix for the crankcase pressure, which is most likely the reason for the oil dipstick popping out. Especially on boosted applications. The valve cover splash plate is known to create an issue with venting, more so with the AP1's from what I have heard. What should be done is drill a series of holes into the backing plate to help the pressure escape, and get a good open to atmosphere catch can that has two inlet ports, and port both from the head to the catch can. That's just my 2 cents on the matter.

 

I agree it is a bandaid. However if the car isn't tracked or driven hard all of the time this will work. At some point I plan to add something like -10 AN fittings for better venting.

 

1) Would you have two inlets ports and then an outlet port back to the cars inlet or would you no bother and block the inlet off?

Thinking of one like this with pipe off the PCV and the front breather (so not using one as an outlet) - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/405146608...3Avlp_homepage

2) Would you remove the PCV valve or just leave it on there

 

The best thing to do is ditch the PCV and run both ports to a open to atmosphere catch can similar to what you are showing. Schmuck Built makes a nice one as well and the one I run. https://www.schmuckbuilt.com/product...-raw-aluminum/