Bois2k's turbo build
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: amarillo
well done with the kit just need to get the exhaust on and do the gauses.. was afraid my intercooler wasnt going to match up to the IP kit but it fit pretty good reason beeing is guy i got the kit from guess parted the intercooler =/
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Nebraska
A couple of tips to save you some headaches.
-Throw some DEI heat sleeves over your vacuum lines to the wastegate anywhere near the manifold. I had one melt and caught it early. It melted during the time I was burping the coolant so it didn't take long. Also throw heat sleaves around the electrical wires that run on the chassis right next to the turbo. They're only a couple inches away from the manifold and turbo so they probably can melt. I threw heat sleaves around my AC lines as well to be safe.
-Since you have the EGR (Air recirc valve) still on the manifold, I'm assuming you don't have a block off plate? Since you need to remove the air pump for the charge pipes, you should block off that valve. A sponsor, PuddyDad, sells the block off plates for cheap.
-Buy a turbo blanket. It helps out tremendously. I could put my hand on my turbine housing (with the blanket over it) right after a pull and not get burnt. If you don't want a fire in your engine bay,
-That manifold and turbo are very heavy. I see that you do not have ARP exhaust manifold studs on your parts list. If you don't want to break one of the stock exhaust manifold studs, I would suggest buying a set of the ARP ones.
-Make sure you threw the fire ring into the wastegate before you installed it on the manifold. I forgot to and had super slow spool. How the ring comes packaged in the Turbosmart box, I throught the fire ring was a v-band flange.
-Throw some DEI heat sleeves over your vacuum lines to the wastegate anywhere near the manifold. I had one melt and caught it early. It melted during the time I was burping the coolant so it didn't take long. Also throw heat sleaves around the electrical wires that run on the chassis right next to the turbo. They're only a couple inches away from the manifold and turbo so they probably can melt. I threw heat sleaves around my AC lines as well to be safe.
-Since you have the EGR (Air recirc valve) still on the manifold, I'm assuming you don't have a block off plate? Since you need to remove the air pump for the charge pipes, you should block off that valve. A sponsor, PuddyDad, sells the block off plates for cheap.
-Buy a turbo blanket. It helps out tremendously. I could put my hand on my turbine housing (with the blanket over it) right after a pull and not get burnt. If you don't want a fire in your engine bay,
-That manifold and turbo are very heavy. I see that you do not have ARP exhaust manifold studs on your parts list. If you don't want to break one of the stock exhaust manifold studs, I would suggest buying a set of the ARP ones.
-Make sure you threw the fire ring into the wastegate before you installed it on the manifold. I forgot to and had super slow spool. How the ring comes packaged in the Turbosmart box, I throught the fire ring was a v-band flange.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 459
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From: amarillo
AH thank you very much bro i do have some things wraped i looked at youre thread but dont have the vacuum lines heat wraped so i will do that asap if they melt that quick 
and yeah i better replace my studs and get that turbo blanket so how bad is the lagg with these huge turbos >.<??
and yeah i better replace my studs and get that turbo blanket so how bad is the lagg with these huge turbos >.<??
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,455
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From: Nebraska
With no fire ring in the wastegate, this is my dyno chart compared to dsddcd's (Scott) ball bearing 6262 T3 setup. Since I put the fire ring in, I haven't really driven it much, but I can tell it spools quicker from the 1 time I got on it a little.
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/1997/scottvstj.jpg
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/1997/scottvstj.jpg