I have thought about this question a few times. The answer is actually simple, but hard to apply. You would need an adjustable BOV. The only problem is, no company makes a BOV that you can "set" for an exact amount of boost. An example would be a Greddy Type-S. It has two spings in it and a screw on top that can be used to compress the spring to make then stiffer. The only problem is that you would have to use a lot of math to find the right rated spring to open the BOV at the amount of boost you want. The other problem is that if you messed up with your math, you'd run the chance of holding in too much boost and then you'd be looking for a new engine.

The other problem is that you would be putting a lot more stress on the blower leading to possible premature failure.

 

I agree with Scorp, the diaphragms screw up the math, if you have a piston with a single defined spring rate then you could easily linearize it.

Problem though that I see, is the additional heat you produce by making the SC spin more, plus it should take more power from the crank to spin it at the RPM required to make the same amount of boost at a lower RPM.

Ultimately, the issue I see is that I'm sure Comptech read closely over some compressor maps before choosing the compressor profile that they did, you may be putting the compressor into surge. Or not, don't have the compressor map.

 

Guys, i just upgraded to a t-trim and dont want to blow up my stock internals so i purchased this product. You can set the boost limit to whatever you want. I currently have a 3.8 pulley on my vortech. I will get the midrange boost ive been lookin for and at redline no more boost past 12psi guaranteed.
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...mitervalve.php

 

Very nice man I just bought their V+ High-Performance Impeller and I will order one of this next week

 

what about welding a wastegate to the charge pipe? They are designed to bleed off bosst above a set psi.

 

The wastegate sounds like a good idea although hideous looking on a charge pipe haha. Another idea that came to me was to hook up a boost control solenoid to your BOV.

Put it in line between the manifold and the BOV and it will allow the air to flow through to the BOV all the time, (boost pressure keeping the bov closed) As soon as it starts to read a specific PSI then the boost solenoid closes and there is no more boost pressure on the BOV (Causing the BOV to open)

Any thoughts?

 

Before you do this check the extra power required down low to make more boost, then add the extra heat of compression, then try and find a blower that will do what you want while on staying on the sail. I know a company that has tried an iris on the inlet to restrict air flow on the top end, bleed off valves, internally recirculation air from inlet to outlet and several other things and they found nothing. The closest I have seen to getting this right is the Antov transmission coupled to the same blower that KW is using but that is not perfect either.

So the moral of the story is if you want low end buy a screw or turbo, if you want top end buy a centrifugal or big turbo. Or if you really want to have fun put together a sequential setup. I will be happy to answer any questions you have but I was really stubborn and beat that horse to death.

About 7 years ago I was heading down the same road and even designed a valve that would handle the CFM necessary to bleed (See Picture of One of the early Designs).

 

I'm sure if the desire is there, this can be done. I also was looking into this with my CT, I think why this hasn't been a definitive modification is because no one apparently has been creative enough to think it through and try it in a safe manner. If you have a boost gauge and and an afr gauge you should be able to safely test the system without causing harm. When I was looking into this i had a higher boost pulley then I thought my fuel system could handle, so to be safe my question arose of being able to control boost bleed set to my spec, it also could allow you to have full control of your power curve for a particular racing application. I was approached by a sales person from Synaps Engineering who sent me a diagram of the valve he proposed could work and was willing to talk to me over the phone to explain how, though wanted to make it clear that they have not tested it for this particular use, he thought it could work however. Here is a link to what I was sent/

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=M...in&MSID=7388019

 

its been done by some mustang guys i was going to do this myself.
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech...tall/index.html

 

The link don't work