Your in the same boat as me 1.5 years ago I had a rev-hard manifold with a gt3071r and I was making 330whp 260trq @ 14psi (dyno dynamics) I could've just upgraded my turbo and made more power but I was tired of rev hard manifold getting hairline cracks (3rd manifold that developed hairline crack). So I decided to go with full race manifold. I found a manifold used, got a full race downpipe,46mm precision wastegate and gtx3076 so probably +/- $2400. I made 464whp 336trq @ 16 psi ((dyno dynamics)134whp/76trq increase vtec lowered from 6700 to 4100) and running a really conservative tune. I didn't relocate the battery, I didn't relocate the fuse box, I just got an a/c relocation. Heat was a major issue I melted my odyssey battery in 1 week so I went back to oem size and bought dei header wrapped for manifold, dei battery wrap, dei battery wrap for fuse box, dei turbo exhaust wrap and made a custom stainless steel heatshield in front of battery. The car runs more reliable than when I had a log which was great, I only worry about breaking diff or 2nd gear more often thats about it

 

You had everything on that side (ac, battery, fusebox, heater valve, etc.) relocated/removed though didn't you? Really wish I didn't have to do that. Seems like a huge hassle, and I generally try and keep all the wiring OEM.

Wow, that is a pretty great gain.


Wow, very nice. Any regrets or things you would do different if you could redo it?

So after you went back to the OEM battery you relocated it or left it in the stock location?

Any pictures of your setup in its current state?

 

I didn't believe everyone about the heat so I should've sent the manifold to ATP to get sarek's heat wrap. That Manifold gets hotttt, really hott no joke only regret I have.

I put battery back in stock location after I melted my odyssey, but I didnt put oem tray back in because it wouldnt fit so not super safe but with fuse box, heat shield, and dei heat wrapping the battery doesnt move.

Here are some pictures. excuse the dirty engine I have a j's hood and the engine is impossible to keep clean clean, and the heat wrapping is damaged from removing/installing the manifold over and over

 

oh yea i forgor to mention everything, battery, fusebox was relocated

 

Hm. I really was hoping not to have to do the inconel wrap. Although I'm sure it works well, I've heard its expensive, and it would suck to have to ship the manifold off to have it done. Plus I can't imagine its easy/convenient as far as access goes...

Yeah, I really didn't want to have to do that...

Although, relocation of the fusebox to the footwell doesn't seem too bad... Did you have to extend any wires? I wouldn't imagine so...

I wonder if I could just relocate the fusebox and leave the battery there with some heatshielding? Maybe relocate the AC too.

The battery is what I want to relocate the least...

Ugh, see this is the kind of hassle that would make PTuning so convenient... Their stiffer engine mount is less than ideal, but I think the requirement of the vband housing is the most annoying...

 

Its a lot of money and work no matter which option you choose. My advice: max out what you have until there is no other option but upgrading if you want more power. All the "sexier" setups have own inherent problems (which you're keenly aware) and in essence you'd just be trading one for the other.


K.I.S.S.

 

The motor mount isn't that bad. But I do see what your saying about the vband. PTUNING is ideal If you have the $$$. Plug and play baby

My damn phone using Tapatalk

 

if u relocate the fusebox to the footwell u wont have to extend any wires, and moving the battery really isnt bad at all, good luck whatever way u go

 

Ptuning kit is awesome! does come with a price. The full race is OK, i believe with full race you have to remove the ac line.

 

You do not have to remove the AC line on the Full Race kit.





Here's the application notes.

Application Notes:

1. 30R Supports up to 560whp, 35R supports up to 660whp. Psychopaths that need more can use larger turbos, inquire for more info.
2. Now includes GT Vband turbine housing and downpipe for easier installation.
3. Gold Heat shielding foil highly recommended for use on A/C lines, Fusebox, and all wires/hoses.
4. We strongly recommend HPC coating exhaust manifold, turbine housing and downpipe, due to close proximity to firewall and fusebox/battery/ac lines.
5. Fuel, tuning and engine management required (AEM EMS or Hondata are recommended). Must remove air pump on driver side fender well to fit charge piping. This is required for any turbokit with an intercooler.
6. Must trim rubber evaporator tube on the firewall. Heat from the turbocharger can cause this to melt.
7. Stock battery location can be retained by using the Full-Race battery strap and a smaller size battery. Full-Race strongly recommends using heat shielding and/or gold heat reflective tape to isolate the battery and fusebox from any thermal stresses.
   

I max out what you have then switch to the full race manifold.