I've been running boosted on completely stock internals for a couple of years now and have always had in mind to build a bullet proof decompressed bottom end.

A couple of weeks back I scored a really good buy on a supposedly dud bottom end. I inspected today and it appears that the cylinder walls are fine. I spoke to the mechanic and apparently it ate a lot of oil (well, some F20Cs do that) and Honda said just swap it out.

My oringal plan was to sleeve it, stroke it and decompress. But if the cylinder walls are in good condition and a basic hone will fix them up I think I'd be crazy to bore out 21st century FRM cylinders and install 19th century ductile iron sleeves.

Of course that leaves me with finding slightly oversized low compression pistons that are FRM compatible. Can anyone tell me who makes such beasts?

Then the only other consideration is stroking. Is it possible to buy the F22C crank and rods in the US and does anyone know what sort of money we're talking about? Are there many dud F22Cs appearing that I could pillage? Has anyone looked into the TSX/K20/H23 or whatever cranks for adaptation?

Any help that you guys can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Also, it has to be noted that even though I am going to extremes with this build I'm not looking to set the 1/4 mile record or anything. I just want a car that has about 400hp and is built to last (as opposed to blast!).

 

If you only want 400 hp then the factory walls will hold up no problem. If you want 500 hp the factory walls are questionable at best.

There is nothing wrong with 19th Century cast iron cylinders. Done properly, they do allow O-rings to be installed. They weigh slightly more and wear differently. They have much better wall strength and pistons are available at the various bore sizes from many sources.

I'd like to know how much cylinder taper a 250,000 or 500,000 mile f20c would show with the FRM cylinders.

There are only a very few sources for pistons compatable with the FRM cylinders. I don't remember any that are not Japanese. None of them are lower compression.

With the questionable history of this block, it may be the best move to do the iron cylinders sooner rather than wait.

I have a block (thanks Matt) that will be getting the cylinders done locally. I figure done properly the finished engine should run 650 hp all day long no problem. The upper limit on the bottom end will be in the area of 1000hp Give me that 19th Century technology.

 

Sleeve it and don't look back. 700hp no prob.


-Chris

 

If you want to run those sleeves, call CP and tell them you are running FRM sleeves and you want a much higher silicon content or just have them give you the best suggestion for pistons.

 

keeping an eye on this since this may be my route as well

 

Looks like I'm going with sleeves and a mild stroke.

I need to work out the best way to get my mitts on an F22 crank. Ideally I'd get one out of a blown short block from the US. Or I may need to buy one new.

I also need to find someone local here to do the sleeves.

 

Or you could buy the built f20 block i have.

Erl Superdeck
wiseco pistons
crower rods
polished crank
9.5:1 conpression

Its definetly bulletproof and safe for 600hp easy.

 

how much did it cost you for a erl super deck?

why did you choose 9:5 CP oppose to 9:1 CP? just wondering

 

why are selling it?

 

Here's pics from the pull down. I can't see anything wrong with the cylinders. The marks in the angled photos are flash effects. The top down ones are a better indication. Any comments on the rings from you experienced engine builders?