built motor
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built motor
I want to go with a built motor, either allenbuilt or laskey racing. I would like something that I will be able to go to the track and have a fast car, 10s and on every nice summer day be able to turn the boost way down and still dive it. Is this a reasonable thing to be able to do?, or should I be going for one or the other. What would any of you recommend from what you have/heard of? Should I go with a 9:1 CR, Also what would be a good size bore?
Jordan
Jordan
#2
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Anything is possible with the right amount of money.
If yo uwant to run 10's FI will be needed and for that lower compression, and very high boost. You will need 500+ and Drag radials to get into the 10's. That won't come cheap. Do some research first most if not all of this has been discussed before.
If yo uwant to run 10's FI will be needed and for that lower compression, and very high boost. You will need 500+ and Drag radials to get into the 10's. That won't come cheap. Do some research first most if not all of this has been discussed before.
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I already am turbod, well in the process of becoming turbod. Will be done in about a month, tuned and all set on a inlinepro 3mm headgasket. I know I will need slicks, and I am asking should I go with a 9:1 CR, or 10:1. I was thinking 9 so I could boost more reliably, What would be a good size displacement?
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Hey whats up again john ha, Yah I was leaning towards going w/ a built 2.2 or 2.3l with a 9:1 CR and getting it tuned for high boost, only to be used when I take it to the track, and hhave my low boost for when I am driving it around. Does this sound like a good idea? Would it be possible to put big power at the track, and be able to drive it on the road reliably also?
#6
If you want to do 10 second quarter miles, you will also need to look into slicks, a beefier rear differential, and some sort of rollcage. The S2000's limiting factors seem to be traction and the differential/transmission.
Drag race sanctioning organizations will kick you off the track if you run too fast with too little safety equipment. Check into the rules at your local track before building your car. Also remember that daily driving a caged car can be dangerous. If you wreck and your head hits the cage without a helmet on, it could kill you.
Tim
Drag race sanctioning organizations will kick you off the track if you run too fast with too little safety equipment. Check into the rules at your local track before building your car. Also remember that daily driving a caged car can be dangerous. If you wreck and your head hits the cage without a helmet on, it could kill you.
Tim
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I amaware of the slicks for the track, the diff. and a rollcage. All of that will be taken car of. I already know what im doing about that, only thing I am not sure of is the motor.
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If you are gonna have a turbo motor, whether it be track or drag, I'd recomend a 9:1 in general. You'll have a good amount of room to play with as far as power goes. Good a proper size turbo and you can adjust boost to make the 525 ish power, and still have some low end on the low boost daily driven setup.
You figure if you can hit the 525rwhp which is all it took for us to run a 10.7 on drag radials, it was near the max HP output of the turbo. Turning the boost down to see around 425rwhp on 93 for just daily driven purpose, I still enjoy driving the car around
You figure if you can hit the 525rwhp which is all it took for us to run a 10.7 on drag radials, it was near the max HP output of the turbo. Turning the boost down to see around 425rwhp on 93 for just daily driven purpose, I still enjoy driving the car around
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What piston size, what kind of crank was that on? So I could go with a gt35r, or bigger and a built 9:1 CR motor and be able to take it to the track and turn up the boost (tuned obv.) and look for mid 10s and turn down the boost and DD it at around 400whp.
Jordan
Jordan