Clutch recommendation for 350-500whp?
Hey guys, I'm hoping you guys can help with a recommendation for a clutch that will not be too bad as far as drivability and will be able to handle 350-500whp. Right now I'm at about 55k miles on the oem clutch but I want to buy a new clutch because I just bought everything to go forced induction.
OEM friction disc, OEM throw out and pilot bearing along with ACT pressure plate and alignment tool. Tons of people use that combo on here including myself and it feels EXACTLY like stock. I also put down 462hp and there is not one bit of slip. Moddiciton now sells a combo kit with all these parts for $700 SHIPPED!
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350 to 500hp, but how much torque?
I'd also recommend the act pp/oem disk combo. At that power level I see no reason to use any other disk, unless you like the possibility of rough engagement and noise.
A lightweight chromoly flywheel would aid in the holding capacity.
I'd also recommend the act pp/oem disk combo. At that power level I see no reason to use any other disk, unless you like the possibility of rough engagement and noise.
A lightweight chromoly flywheel would aid in the holding capacity.
OEM friction disc, OEM throw out and pilot bearing along with ACT pressure plate and alignment tool. Tons of people use that combo on here including myself and it feels EXACTLY like stock. I also put down 462hp and there is not one bit of slip. Moddiciton now sells a combo kit with all these parts for $700 SHIPPED!
I have had a lot of clutches in my day. I can say that any single disc puck style clutches like the competition stage 4 and act 6 puck all will greatly hurt the driveability of your car. If you car is driven in the street in stop and go traffic stay away from these style clutches. But if its a race car then these clutch are cheep and hold a lot of power and these clutches are fine. They will hold 600whp fine but drivability will suck.
But if good stock like driveability is important to you then this is what you want.
1 Stock clutch is safe and good to about 320whp or so.
2 act hdss or hd pressure plate with stock clutch disc. This is good to about 500-550whp or so with stock drivability but the clutch pedal will be significantly stiffer than stock. The oem clutch disc will prevent clutch buzz/noise. If you run the act clutch disc you will have some clutch buzz
3 For anything above 500ish whp you want to go with the science of speed carbon on carbon twin disc. It will hold any amount of power you will make and will hold more power than your transmission and drive train can take with almost 100% stock like drivability with a soft clutch pedal like stock. Draw back is the price. This clutch is $2400. Other twin disc like the compettion twin also have good drivability, way better than their stage 4 ( single disc 6 puck) but they do not last a long time.
For your goal of 500whp i would just go with a oem ap1 flywheel, oem clutch disc, oem throw out bearing and an ACT heavy duty pressure plate.
But if good stock like driveability is important to you then this is what you want.
1 Stock clutch is safe and good to about 320whp or so.
2 act hdss or hd pressure plate with stock clutch disc. This is good to about 500-550whp or so with stock drivability but the clutch pedal will be significantly stiffer than stock. The oem clutch disc will prevent clutch buzz/noise. If you run the act clutch disc you will have some clutch buzz
3 For anything above 500ish whp you want to go with the science of speed carbon on carbon twin disc. It will hold any amount of power you will make and will hold more power than your transmission and drive train can take with almost 100% stock like drivability with a soft clutch pedal like stock. Draw back is the price. This clutch is $2400. Other twin disc like the compettion twin also have good drivability, way better than their stage 4 ( single disc 6 puck) but they do not last a long time.
For your goal of 500whp i would just go with a oem ap1 flywheel, oem clutch disc, oem throw out bearing and an ACT heavy duty pressure plate.









