s2konroids

So after a successful SC Novi 1000 rebuild i thought my car was running sweet as a nut, unfortunately upon removal i knicked the braided oil return line (broke a few strands) on the cross-member, or i pulled the tubing out slightly.

I thought it would okay as i blew air through it and no air leaked, however oil is a funny thing and it leaks now .

I must be under very low pressure as it just leaves a 2"x2" small oil puddle on the drive when HOT - i have been monitoring it and it doesn't seem to leak that much from the dipstick.

For me i really cant be bothered taking off the supercharger yet again but...

1. Can i remove the oil return line without removing the supercharger?, as we all know there is hardly any room to manoeuvre about underneath the supercharger. Perhaps i could modify a spanner to stop fouling the SC housing?

2. Maybe its just come loose at the top, anyway i can push it up and re-tighten, how would i go about doing this?

3. Are the CT oil return lines rubber tubing inside the braided line?

4. If its pierced in some way on the rubber tubing, can I melt it and let it dry and reseal the hole? - seems an odd idea but I've seen this technique used before.

Thanks

goldenfri

I can't imagine you can replace that line without pulling the supercharger again, there just isn't enough room to work.

s2kadrenalin

If you get the car on a hoist, you can tighten / undo the fittings to the sump / S/c much easier.

Also, if it is tight, but still leaks around the fittings, you can use "thread tape". I did this when I cross threaded my oil nippler until my new one arrived. Worked a charm.

Failing that, contact CT-Engineering and order a new braided hose line / fittings. Will probably cost you $200-$300 but for piece of mind you'll have the right part that fits properly.

s2konroids

Shiiit

It was a pain in the arse removing it last time, my back ached for days and I'll have to do it again.

s2kadrenalin

Trust me, get it on a hoist, makes life so much easier.

Alternatively, unbolt the S/c from the brackets (along with the aftercooler).

I left that bottom **** of a bolt threaded in, however you can twist the S/c & backing plate vertically up. This gives about 123489% easier tightening / loosening to the braided hose at teh base of the S/c. Downside is, putting it all back together for the next 45 minutes or so.

s2kadrenalin

Undo the bracket bolts, and twist vertically.

s2konroids

thanks

s2konroids

Can anyone tell me the spec of the line and connectors?

Is it an -8AN?

Thanks

s2konroids

anyone?

s2konroids

Sorted you don't need to remove the SC, you can take a little off the head of the spanner so it doesn't foul the SC housing. I just replaced the whole line and reused the connectors. It had perished overtime so i didn't really damage it . Bit of a PITA due to the braids which can split and come loose, thus work its way out.

For future reference it is -8AN, the standard line is 15" but i recommend 17" as it doesn't touch the sump any-more and has a little more slack.