CT Engineering Supercharger Concern-HELP
I recently purchased a CTSC, it came with the new Novi 1220 blower and a aftercooler. I had it installed at a Honda Shop (non-dealer). After I got the car back from the shop a CEL pooped up: P0170 & P0171 running LEAN. I was devastated when this happened not only because I spent so much money but because I was fearing that I would not pass smog. As I was driving back to the shop my S2k kept shutting off every time I approached a red light or came to a stop. Made me sick to my stomach. Once I got to the shop the mechanic said he would need to adjust the CT Fuel Pressure Regulator (Red in color). He took some off, then stated that the car would lose some power. I was a little bothered about losing the power, but glad that the CELs were gone. The CELs have not come back since the adjustment, but I have felt a loss in power. Have you had issues like this?
My new concern is smog. I have a smog test that needs to be done in a few months. I spoke to Nate from CT and he mailed me a CARB sticker: D-637. I read the executive order D-637 and it does list my 2000 S2k. But I did read a specific part on the executive order which states : This Executive Order shall not apply to any CT-Engineering Supercharger Kit advertised,offered for sale, sold with, or installed on a new motor vehicle prior to or concurrent with transfer to an ultimate purchaser.
Im currently paying off the car, I have a few more years to go. I am wondering if the smog shops actually look to see if you own the car or if it’s being paid off (lean holder). Would you know anything regarding this? Like many of us, I have had cars before where I was paying them off and upgraded the intake to AEM cold air and have never been hassled about modifying an engine part to a car that I am paying off. The same is stated for upgrades as small as a cold air intake upgrade. When you got your S2K smog did it go well? Did you need to bring any documents on the CTSC?
Your input is greatly appreciated.
NOTE:
-LINK TO EXECUTIVE ORDER D-637ORDER-CARB D-637
-I HAVE POSTED MY DYNO CHART: MECHANIC SAID HIS DYNO SYSTEM REPORTS LOW NUMBERS P.S. THIS WAS BEFORE FPR WAS ADJUSTED AND DECREASED-00 S2K SUPERCHARGED
-ANY COMMENTS REGARDING MY 2 ISSUES WOULD BE APPRICIATED AND VALUED
My new concern is smog. I have a smog test that needs to be done in a few months. I spoke to Nate from CT and he mailed me a CARB sticker: D-637. I read the executive order D-637 and it does list my 2000 S2k. But I did read a specific part on the executive order which states : This Executive Order shall not apply to any CT-Engineering Supercharger Kit advertised,offered for sale, sold with, or installed on a new motor vehicle prior to or concurrent with transfer to an ultimate purchaser.
Im currently paying off the car, I have a few more years to go. I am wondering if the smog shops actually look to see if you own the car or if it’s being paid off (lean holder). Would you know anything regarding this? Like many of us, I have had cars before where I was paying them off and upgraded the intake to AEM cold air and have never been hassled about modifying an engine part to a car that I am paying off. The same is stated for upgrades as small as a cold air intake upgrade. When you got your S2K smog did it go well? Did you need to bring any documents on the CTSC?
Your input is greatly appreciated.
NOTE:
-LINK TO EXECUTIVE ORDER D-637ORDER-CARB D-637
-I HAVE POSTED MY DYNO CHART: MECHANIC SAID HIS DYNO SYSTEM REPORTS LOW NUMBERS P.S. THIS WAS BEFORE FPR WAS ADJUSTED AND DECREASED-00 S2K SUPERCHARGED
-ANY COMMENTS REGARDING MY 2 ISSUES WOULD BE APPRICIATED AND VALUED
First off, I wold highly suggest you get some sort of Wideband so you can monitor your AFRs.
Secondly, the Dyno video shows you making only 243 hp. That is extremely low even for the base kit. You should be around 300whp. Even with the adjustment on the fule pressure regulator, you should be making more power than that.
Secondly, the Dyno video shows you making only 243 hp. That is extremely low even for the base kit. You should be around 300whp. Even with the adjustment on the fule pressure regulator, you should be making more power than that.
The video shows that he has a wideband failsafe gauge installed, so he's covered there. Quality parts man, I love that gauge.
What are your AFR's reading under WOT? Get on the highway, put it in 3rd gear, get down to about 3k RPM, then do a pull up to redline and keep one eye on your wideband gauge numbers. Tell us what the numbers do during that pull.
What are your AFR's reading under WOT? Get on the highway, put it in 3rd gear, get down to about 3k RPM, then do a pull up to redline and keep one eye on your wideband gauge numbers. Tell us what the numbers do during that pull.
First off, I wold highly suggest you get some sort of Wideband so you can monitor your AFRs.
Secondly, the Dyno video shows you making only 243 hp. That is extremely low even for the base kit. You should be around 300whp. Even with the adjustment on the fule pressure regulator, you should be making more power than that.
Secondly, the Dyno video shows you making only 243 hp. That is extremely low even for the base kit. You should be around 300whp. Even with the adjustment on the fule pressure regulator, you should be making more power than that.
The video shows that he has a wideband failsafe gauge installed, so he's covered there. Quality parts man, I love that gauge.
What are your AFR's reading under WOT? Get on the highway, put it in 3rd gear, get down to about 3k RPM, then do a pull up to redline and keep one eye on your wideband gauge numbers. Tell us what the numbers do during that pull.
What are your AFR's reading under WOT? Get on the highway, put it in 3rd gear, get down to about 3k RPM, then do a pull up to redline and keep one eye on your wideband gauge numbers. Tell us what the numbers do during that pull.
I will do that today! I'll get back to you with the numbers.
The video shows that he has a wideband failsafe gauge installed, so he's covered there. Quality parts man, I love that gauge.
What are your AFR's reading under WOT? Get on the highway, put it in 3rd gear, get down to about 3k RPM, then do a pull up to redline and keep one eye on your wideband gauge numbers. Tell us what the numbers do during that pull.
What are your AFR's reading under WOT? Get on the highway, put it in 3rd gear, get down to about 3k RPM, then do a pull up to redline and keep one eye on your wideband gauge numbers. Tell us what the numbers do during that pull.
Originally Posted by CoolGuy094' timestamp='1428630989' post='23572801
The video shows that he has a wideband failsafe gauge installed, so he's covered there. Quality parts man, I love that gauge.
What are your AFR's reading under WOT? Get on the highway, put it in 3rd gear, get down to about 3k RPM, then do a pull up to redline and keep one eye on your wideband gauge numbers. Tell us what the numbers do during that pull.
What are your AFR's reading under WOT? Get on the highway, put it in 3rd gear, get down to about 3k RPM, then do a pull up to redline and keep one eye on your wideband gauge numbers. Tell us what the numbers do during that pull.
This isn't always easy to check on the street so it may take a few times and make sure your well free of other traffic in front of you. You will be seeing about 90mph top of 3rd gear. But this afr is really going to make the car run like poo as is and in fact its zo rich that I would be concerned of fuel washing the cylinders so I would check your oil condition for fuel smell and change asap if questionable.
You need to lean out the rrfpr (counter clockwise) undo the 1/2" lock nut and use an Allen key to turn the post on top of the unit. Also make sure your not getting any belt slip. You should be seeing 5.5psi at redline typical for your set up assuming you are running the stock pulley. Belt slip will cause a rich condition to a point, but also chase you to be down on power. Feel free to PM me if you have any street tuning/adjustment questions from here. Good luck.
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