Emanage Ultimate and Map Sensor with SOT SC
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From: Wetumpka, Alabama
Originally Posted by neptuner' timestamp='1308314154' post='20692307
My car is running fine at high rpm and in boost. The only issues I have are at idle and sputtering after sitting at a stop, especially when hot.
I think this is a common problem and idiosyncracy with the kit because of where the air pickup is. I thought you had posted a while back you were doing the NACA duct but I don't rememebr for sure. I have not done that and think it would certainly help. I talked to Mark on the phone about it the other day and one thing he suggested was to check the throttle postion sensor voltage as per the instruction manual and set it on the low side if you can. Then tweak the idle screw in minute increments until you get a smooth idle. He said he did this on his own car and it helped a lot.
Secondly, when the car sits in traffic or hot starts you get all that heated air in the intake tract. A while back he had kind of walked me through how to data log for seeing what kind of temps the car was seeing in those circumstances and setting up some kind of vairable where the fuel and timing would be changed to compensate for those conditions of extreme intake temp (sitting in traffic). I did not follow it and did not want to try for fear of screwing things up.
But I come in after some hot day runs and the barrel feels cool but every other part of the intake tract is HOT and I am sure that has an impact. I want to do the naca duct, shield the filter from the header, and see if I can work an air guide from below to scoop under car airflow up to the filter but have never gotten around to it.
I am sure there is a way to tune for the hot air after sitting, but I am the wrong guy to ask. It is pretty obvious though that while you sit, super hot air just rises off the header and gets sucked into the filter.
My car used to run better with this same set up. I recently replaced the primary O2 sensor which helped a little. I am about to replace the MAP sensor and see if that fixes it.
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From: MAHT-O-MEDI
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Just a suggestion... The SOS kit comes with a diverter valve that blows off boost when you're not trying to accelerate. This blowoff is recirculated into the SC intake, which means the air just keeps going around in circles getting hotter and hotter. A local shop recommended that I vent to atmosphere instead, and I am now doing so. I have not logged IAT's before/after doing so, but it seems to make sense logically and has also made my SC much quieter.
Does the SOT kit have a blowoff / diverter? Is it recirculated or to atmosphere? If it's recirculated, that might cause heat soak.
Does the SOT kit have a blowoff / diverter? Is it recirculated or to atmosphere? If it's recirculated, that might cause heat soak.
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From: Wetumpka, Alabama
Just a suggestion... The SOS kit comes with a diverter valve that blows off boost when you're not trying to accelerate. This blowoff is recirculated into the SC intake, which means the air just keeps going around in circles getting hotter and hotter. A local shop recommended that I vent to atmosphere instead, and I am now doing so. I have not logged IAT's before/after doing so, but it seems to make sense logically and has also made my SC much quieter.
Does the SOT kit have a blowoff / diverter? Is it recirculated or to atmosphere? If it's recirculated, that might cause heat soak.
Does the SOT kit have a blowoff / diverter? Is it recirculated or to atmosphere? If it's recirculated, that might cause heat soak.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,949
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From: MAHT-O-MEDI
Hey Neptuner,
I tried to fiddle with mine this morning because I had some housekeeping issue to take care of. I was hoping to do an apples to apples comparison and I unplugged a couple of sensors while working and forgot to plug one back in before startup and threw a code. I had to reset the ecu to clear the code so I am not going to get apples to apples.
I did clean my IAC valve after searching some threads about the bog. Mine has only 33k on it so it was not that dirty. I also played with the idle screw on the TB to get it as perfect as I could. It SEEMED to help but since I did an ecu reset and it was still learning I am not sure what the end result will be. It did occur to me to do an ECU reset under super hot conditions some day and let the computer learn how to make things run smoother in the worst case scenario and see if that makes any difference. Today is not that hot so maybe I will try that in the future.
In any case, if you play around and find a magic bullet, please send me a pm. I have learned to drive with a little hesitation when hot but if I can fix it, all the better.
I tried to fiddle with mine this morning because I had some housekeeping issue to take care of. I was hoping to do an apples to apples comparison and I unplugged a couple of sensors while working and forgot to plug one back in before startup and threw a code. I had to reset the ecu to clear the code so I am not going to get apples to apples.
I did clean my IAC valve after searching some threads about the bog. Mine has only 33k on it so it was not that dirty. I also played with the idle screw on the TB to get it as perfect as I could. It SEEMED to help but since I did an ecu reset and it was still learning I am not sure what the end result will be. It did occur to me to do an ECU reset under super hot conditions some day and let the computer learn how to make things run smoother in the worst case scenario and see if that makes any difference. Today is not that hot so maybe I will try that in the future.
In any case, if you play around and find a magic bullet, please send me a pm. I have learned to drive with a little hesitation when hot but if I can fix it, all the better.
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: MAHT-O-MEDI
Resurecting dead thread.
Neptuner,
I had a chance to finally play with mine. It is hot here today, about 90 and high humidity. I opened my map and found lots if zeros in the ingition map at low rpm. The upper right corner of the timing map. Since the car pulls timing when hot but the stock car would generally not see the kind of hot temps like it does from the SOT kit pulluing air off the header I thought that pulling a little bit might help.
I think I mentioned I know NOTHING about tuning but thought taking out a little timing below 3000 rpm would not hurt I basically started by pulling 1 degree (after the car was fully hot for testing) at anything below a couple pounds of boost and from 2500 rpm down. This made a little box of about 1 degree retard at the top corner. This helped so I went to 2 degrees everywhere in that same region and it helped more. I pulled about 3 degrees at everything below two pounds, and from 1500 to 2500 rpm and this got rid of the stumble almost entirely.
I think if you play with it a bit you will find you can get it to where you want it to be pretty easy. Mine is not perfect, but it is 100 times better than it was and can handle a teensy bit of stumble in really hot weather if it is a bit peppier when cool or cold so I am happy where it is but may refine it a bit later.
Give that a shot, you will probably find it helps a lot.
John
Neptuner,
I had a chance to finally play with mine. It is hot here today, about 90 and high humidity. I opened my map and found lots if zeros in the ingition map at low rpm. The upper right corner of the timing map. Since the car pulls timing when hot but the stock car would generally not see the kind of hot temps like it does from the SOT kit pulluing air off the header I thought that pulling a little bit might help.
I think I mentioned I know NOTHING about tuning but thought taking out a little timing below 3000 rpm would not hurt I basically started by pulling 1 degree (after the car was fully hot for testing) at anything below a couple pounds of boost and from 2500 rpm down. This made a little box of about 1 degree retard at the top corner. This helped so I went to 2 degrees everywhere in that same region and it helped more. I pulled about 3 degrees at everything below two pounds, and from 1500 to 2500 rpm and this got rid of the stumble almost entirely.
I think if you play with it a bit you will find you can get it to where you want it to be pretty easy. Mine is not perfect, but it is 100 times better than it was and can handle a teensy bit of stumble in really hot weather if it is a bit peppier when cool or cold so I am happy where it is but may refine it a bit later.
Give that a shot, you will probably find it helps a lot.
John
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That's an interesting idea. I just got the Greddy software running and am itching to mess with (or mess up) my tune... Successes like yours inspire me to try it.
Gotta love the EMU - I just passed Georgia OBDII emissions with it for the second time.
Gotta love the EMU - I just passed Georgia OBDII emissions with it for the second time.
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From: Wetumpka, Alabama
Right now my car is running pretty well. I replaced the OEM MAP sensor and that cleared up the low speed sputtering problem. I cleaned the IAC and that improved the problem where the car would die when rolling to a stop.
The timing adjustment recommended by Vader1 is promising. I will keep this in mind if the hot weather sputtering issue returns.
I did buy a harness to connect the cavlico boost sensor to the EMU, but I have not hooked it up yet. I am still using the OEM MAP sensor all the way to max boost.
The timing adjustment recommended by Vader1 is promising. I will keep this in mind if the hot weather sputtering issue returns.
I did buy a harness to connect the cavlico boost sensor to the EMU, but I have not hooked it up yet. I am still using the OEM MAP sensor all the way to max boost.
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From: location, location
Interesting.
It was probably me who you mentioned made a cable for the o2 sensor from the UK
, but would it hell read the correct values from my UEGO o2 sensor - i think its the way the uego output voltage unlike linear o2 sensors.
Be careful with timing, probably be best doing it on a dyno however...Are you saying you retarding timing in WOT low down in the rev range? if so that makes sense to retard it somewhat since on your setup you'll be making small amounts of boost low down. Very roughly (every car is different) its -1deg per 1 psi of boost.
Remember we have to stock ECU in the loop too and it babysits you somewhat/hinders you, IIRC in WOT the stock ECU will begin to pull timing when (IAT temps) =>45 celcius in WOT, i forget how many degrees but it increases with IAT temps.
Can someone tell me if their greddy pressure sensor flucuates (not a lot) in WOT particularly in vtec???
Could someone also tell me what the GEMU reports back at the redline RPM on an AP1??? - mines seems to say 87XXrpm
It appears the stock map sensor fluctautes quite a lot more than a greddy pressure sensor in WOT - which is why at your boost levels you should change it.
It was probably me who you mentioned made a cable for the o2 sensor from the UK
, but would it hell read the correct values from my UEGO o2 sensor - i think its the way the uego output voltage unlike linear o2 sensors.Be careful with timing, probably be best doing it on a dyno however...Are you saying you retarding timing in WOT low down in the rev range? if so that makes sense to retard it somewhat since on your setup you'll be making small amounts of boost low down. Very roughly (every car is different) its -1deg per 1 psi of boost.
Remember we have to stock ECU in the loop too and it babysits you somewhat/hinders you, IIRC in WOT the stock ECU will begin to pull timing when (IAT temps) =>45 celcius in WOT, i forget how many degrees but it increases with IAT temps.
Can someone tell me if their greddy pressure sensor flucuates (not a lot) in WOT particularly in vtec???
Could someone also tell me what the GEMU reports back at the redline RPM on an AP1??? - mines seems to say 87XXrpm
It appears the stock map sensor fluctautes quite a lot more than a greddy pressure sensor in WOT - which is why at your boost levels you should change it.