Flashpro ONLY supports the DBW S2000s. Its 06+

Unless you want the ability to run flex fuel capabilities. There's no reason at all to not go Flashpro

If I were to own an 06+ S2000, Flashpro would be the very first thing I do. Even the Hondata base maps have been known to be a little better than the factory s2000 tune. Plus you can easily e-tune it for pretty cheap.

 

Flashpro ONLY supports the DBW S2000s. Its 06+

Unless you want the ability to run flex fuel capabilities. There's not reason at all to not go Flashpro
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Someone who reads! THANK YOU for clearing up my misconception! Sounds like Flashpro is in fact the way to go, as i have no plans or intentions of going the E85 route. Would only tune to the level that 93 octane would allow.

lleron - I was really considering a test pipe as is, but after reading up on how fussy the '07's seem to be with CEL's, it made me steer away. I'm pretty sure i recall that you can turn off OBD2 on Flashpro, which would make this a non-issue moving forward.

Jin_sk - I could certainly appreciate that, and while relatively dangerous to keeping the car in one piece on the streets, i just consider that fun factor! It's where the well calibrated right foot comes in. 66' Shelby Cobra kit car (460 block) and worked 289 Mustang Track car taught me those skills,.....and inherently created my need for boost. I am "accustomed" to 400+ hp.

 

With $2000 burning a hole in your pocket I was just posing stuff to NOT buy!

Be certain to hear aftermarket exhausts in person, not Internet sound clips. I bought the Invidia Q300 based on sound clips. It went to a good home after two months.

Everything back of the engine influences sound. Even the exhaust tips change the sound. Test pipe will sound different from the cat. High flow cat will sound different than stock. Etc. Competent retailers assure me that ALL aftermarket exhausts drone, just in different rpm ranges and intensities. The HKS single exhaust was a recommendation listed at 96bBA, the Tanabe dual at 94dBA. Since these are logarithmic scales I think that makes the HKS system 60% louder. Reinforces the need to hear them personally and from inside the car. My Medalion Touring quiets down as the exhaust system warms up. Dual exhausts will resonate at certain frequencies as the pipes are not exactly the same length. Singles can be easier to keep quiet. But the styling of the car demands dual exhaust tips.

Test pipes, in my opinion, are irresponsible. Not only that they stink.

Frankly I'm surprised and happy the S2000 remains supported by both Honda and the aftermarket. It's been nearly 10 years since 95% of these cars left the factory.

-- Chuck

 

If I were you I'd consider buying flash pro, hfc/tp, or a clutch setup. I'd prob just stock pile the parts and not install anything other than the clutch unti I went FI...just my 0.02

 

Ahhh. I got ya. I'm the type that genuinely appreciates the car for what it is. Been drooling over them since highschool and at age 31, still never thought i would own one. No stretched tires, rock-hard untuned suspensions, or Herrafrush for this guy.

Having once purchased an EG hatch with Neuspeed header and custom exhaust, and trying in everything in my power to quiet the damn thing down over the years of ownership, i've got a tremendous feel for where i DONT want to be. I would just like a slightly more audible an exotic note. Perhaps UK mod is the first route i should go... If i went with aftermarket i would stick with dual for the sake of complementing the factory styling, and from what i read they are typically quieter. Again it is my understanding for the power numbers i would not need a cat back at all, this would simply be for aural pleasures. I can appreciate the stance on test pipes, but in Michigan there are no emissions testing requirements, and there are plenty of hoopties around the D and surrounding ghettos burning so much oil they look like they are "rolling coal." I dont light couches on fire for fun, but i dont hug trees either....

 

This is likely the route i will go, aside from the waiting on Flashpro part. The clutch is the only thorn in my side when it comes to this car. After a few weeks of driving, banging some gears, and getting a better feel for the vehicle, i was fearful that i had bought the car (as is) with a smoked clutch. When taking the car to at/near redline and shifting quickly, i would experience clutch slip in the next gear. I would have to stab at the throttle a couple times to get it to mesh back up. I did the digging and found out about CDV. This lessened my fears. Doing some of the basic tests such as starting off on a steep hill, or flatland with the e-brake engaged, the clutch showed the appropriate level of bite and further lessened my fears. Did more research and learned about the differences in AP2 flywheels (and pressure plates?). It all puts me back at a loss. Not sure what the root issue is. I can appreciate that Honda realized how these cars were going to be used, learned some lessons from AP1's and were protecting themselves from warranty claims, and "protecting" the car accordingly in design, but i HATE it. I dont got out and thrash on it all the time, but in the instance where i get a wild hair up my ass i want it to perform as (i believe) it should. I can grab gears and chirp tires in my RSX-S, but not in my S2k. That simple statement drives me nuts. I also experienced the issue once while under hard braking, and quick downshifts. Things "slipped" and the RPM's started to fall quickly. I got back on the clutch immediately as I acknowledged the issue. Haven't tried to recreate it since.

My mental sanity is only maintained knowing that i will need to get in there and upgrade anyways, but if someone could point me in the right direction in the mean time it would be appreciated. I have been thinking i would do the tranny work the season prior to boost.

 

I like the Tanabe Medalion Touring exhaust more and more as I drive it. Out today in Cleveland city and expressway traffic and she gets to 80mph before I know it with an aggressive but not "rice" sound in VTEC yet murmurs along in city traffic. Moving slowly in Ohio State football traffic in Columbus a couple weekends ago (Lane Avenue if anyone knows OSU) the exhaust made no one look around yet sounded good to the several car enthusiasts how gave us thumbs up from the sidewalk. Sounds like a refined performance car at idle. The Gernby tune moved the power curve and VTEC down and lets the car move easily at much lower engine speeds, don't need high revs all the time. I'm impatient to see the power curve on the dyno this Saturday.

With the tune the car revs to 8,000 rpm so quickly I installed a "red line warning horn" to help me from bumping the rev limiter all the time. 7500, 7700, 7900, and 8100 rpm beeps sound like an alarm clock in lower gears. Ringggg. Shift. In higher gears it's more spaced out. Rev limiter is set to 8400 rpm. (Also FlashPro settable.)

I discarded the UK Mod idea in favor of bolt on stuff I can do by myself. There are many different bypass pipe diameter combinations. Try to hear them all first. It did take two of us to get the stock exhaust off (tip: remove the rear from the hangers first)) but the installation of the Q300 and replacement with the Medalion Touring were one-man jobs with the car on a lift (or jackstands).

-- Chuck

 

I would Flashpro and run a basemap, then once you have Exhaust/TP/Intake put that all on at once and do another e-tune through VitViper or Gernby. They don't charge full price for minor changes like bolt ons.

 

No need for exhaust, stock exhaust will handle well above 450+whp. That being said, you WILL want to go with HFC or test pipe. With regards to the comment on the CEL, there is a device that you can stick on the O2 sensor that will resolve that. What you decide to do if/when emissions testing comes around is another topic...

If you're set on going FI and it's just a matter of time ... I'd start off with breaking in the new clutch/PP. Most of us are running the OEM clutch, ACT PP, and AP1 flywheel.

 

Define "handle". You'll definitely see a restriction with the stock exhaust if you're doing forced induction. There's no way around it.