Hi Guys,

Complete newbie to the Honda world. I’m building a old ford for drag racing in the UK and have a nice Cosworth 4x4 engine ready to modify. However looking around and reading non stop, I can’t get over what some of you guys are doing with the F20c engine.

My my questions are?

Is ap1 best or ap2?
Does one have or use oil squirters?
Is there a difference in gearbox ratios between the two?

I plan to use a Link ECU as I’m a dealer here in the UK.

Many thanks and sorry if these are stupid questions

 

The AP2 engine and it's matching gearbox are different from the earlier AP1 engine but finding an AP2 engine and gearbox other than in North America or Japan will be difficult as they're the only market where they were sold.

Since there are literally no AP1 engines in the UK the "what's best" question is moot.

If you do build a little drag car with one of these engines please keep us updated. I know they occasionally show up in "Seven" clones and are very fast.

-- Chuck

 

you will only get AP1 2.0 ltr in the uk as a factory engine unless you ship a 2.2 in from USA or Japan or build to your own to spec 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 but remember an looked after unopend engine will be more reliable than anything else

my opinion just find a rear end damaged car as you might need more bits than just the engine, pull the motor and place in what ever it is your building turbo or supercharger

 

Here in the UK an Ap1 facelift engine from 04/05 is considered the better.

 

Thank you guys, this is all great information, I’m thinking it’s a cost effective way to make 600-700whp. And unlike a cosworth YB it can be replaced if the worst is to happen.

 

You might consider a k20/k24 rwd setup as well. Might be able to source easier than a f20/f22

 

+2 on that recommendation. It's getting to the point where its cheaper to do F24 builds that require a new crankshaft than it is to rebuild a F20/22. The crankshafts are getting stupid expensive for used ones. At that point, if you're doing a motor swap, just go with a K series. It'll be cheaper in the long run.

 

If you’re between oem used AP1 vs AP2, get the 03 AP1 motor and change retainers to AP2. Or just do it right and go AP2.

00-02 need retainers and oil squirters (bore scoring)
03 needs just retainers

F22C1 USDM 04+ you need nothing

?07+? You need to make sure exhaust valves are not
too tight. But you should be checking valve adjustment 1st thing anyways.

Fellow tenured S2K members please chime in to make sure I’m on-point here.

Edit#123: Didn’t completely read your post and started firing away with answers and missed one. Yes, AP2 synchros are better/resilient and so is ratio. Google it, I’m lazy.

 

I think purchasing any used engine one needs to do a full health check prior to installing . Early Ap1 engines will need the Banjo bolts changed if going forced induction or any lengthy high speed driving . Also all ap1 engines should have the retainers inspected and valves adjusted . If the said retainers are fine then no need to replace them . There are lots of Ap1's mine included rocking the originals with zero issues . From my experience all model years get tight exhaust valves if run hard . Check for good compression / leakdown and if good drop it in and enjoy one of the best 4 bangers out there .