Asked on the main page with one reply.

Basically, i am now sc'd. My evap sol was leaking boost on the dyno, so i pulled the two lines going to the mani, plugged the mani ports, and just left the lines chillin. But now, the car reaks of fuel after driving.

What have you guys done to combat this side effect?
thanks ahead of time!
-nathan

 

nose plugs

 

Check here:

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/842...t__p__20337702

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/806...t__p__19218058

 

after reading those threads(one of which i forgot i posted in back in the day when i was turbo for like 2 months), I think a simple solution would be a 1 way vac operated check valve that went in place of the solenoid. that way, vac could still pull vapors from the canister when under vac conditions, and the one way check would keep one from pressurizing the tank when under boost.

think i may look for a solid check valve and try that out. seems like that is the original idea honda went with and just had the electric sol as a more advanced check valve that can be manipulated by the ecu.

whatchu guys think? do you think there will be enough airflow through the check valve to jack with the tune on the motor under vac?

 

Keep the heater/ac on recirc even if you're not using it
E85 smells better than gas
Nose plugs!

Joking aside, well the first point is actually valid, mine's not that bad. Only downside I notice is you have to baby the pump when filling up as the trapped vapors trip the auto cutoff.

 

Beat me to it


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk.

 

^^^
What did you end up doing bro? as much detail as possible in a response is much appreciated. dont just say, "i pulled the evap crap". lol. thats what i have gotten back in pm's.

my car runs so well and is just great, so i dont wanna jack it up by removing that stuff, especially if its gonna smell of fuel just as much as it does now, minus the caster filling up and leaking fuel.... which is kinda dicey if ya think about it.

 

Why, not just leave it and purge manually on occasion. You could put in a small ball valve like used on a lawn mower and remove the Evap solenoid.

If you are a bit more savey just enable an output in the EMS, not sure the most elegent way to do so.

Problem solved

 

^Because mine was leaking on the dyno at 7 psi-ish. Unplugged it and capped the mani ports, and i was back to peaking at 9.4-9.5psi.

 

I'm in the same situation as you and read the links provided. I was also reviewing the EMS instructions and on the connection diagram on page 5 of 10 it lists the pins for the EVAP system:

Evap bypass solenoid valve-low side driver #3
Evap contgrol canister vent-low side driver #5
Evap purge control solenoid-low side driver #4

For availability they are listed at "PNP for EVAP"

Does this imply the EMS can control the EVAP system?

The EMS has a Evap purge control menu in setup >>>advanced setup>>>Evap purge control and within that menu are 3 output options:

purge PWM output with a dropdown menu
purge valve #1 out with a dropdown
purge valve #2 out with a dropdown as well.

Anyone know if these correspond to the three outputs for the EVAP and how to tell which one?