just to clarify for the people seeing them as head studs, they r header studs, just a note to some people these arp studs are longer then the stock ones and required removing a few, putting the manifold on, then screw the studs in through the flange holes, the full race mani would not fit with the turbo attached with out doing this, also the motor was jacked up as far as it could go, good luck guys

 

sweet, i shall order from them then! thank you sir! did you have some shear off too im guessing?

 

u can grind them down or do what i did in the post above

 

I use the ARP studs but I did not use the 12 points nuts that came with them. A lot of people reported that the supplied nuts came off. I used Nissan locking tabs and hex nuts to make sure they stay where they should.

I think you can order the usual hex nut instead of the 12 points nuts but you better double check that with ARP. The hex nut is easier to "lock" than the round 12 points nut.

 

thats a good idea the 12 pts can be a bitch to get to, expceially the ones in the middle on the bottom, i had to cut a wrench to tighten all the nuts

 

i had to fit my hand underneith the manifold and turbo to tighten those bolts. I also used a piece of string to tighten it fully... talk about using the ingenuity to get at them.

 

crap i just installed my turbo on the engine.....

is this a common problem? should i get ARP studs now?

 

might wanna, i had nuts coming off all the time with the stock studs, i switched to the arps and not one was fallen off

 

the nuts came off the stock studs for me every week. i was tired of ****ing with them!

 

Those 12 point nuts that come with the ARP's are made to self lock when tightened if I'm not mistaken. The threads have a certain pitch to them that when tightened in conjunction with the studs, they lock. I haven't had one come loose in over a yr.