extra power
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From: Seattle / Kalifornia
Originally Posted by Project22a,Mar 23 2008, 12:58 PM
I don't believe like I/H/E will decrease the life of the motor at all. It's things like FI that can *potentially* decrease the life of the motor but that is heavily dependent on the tuner.
If you're boosted and running a conservative (rich) tune then I don't think there's any reason the motor wouldn't last as long as a stock one, provided you do all the required maintenance (fluid changes, valve adjustments, etc..)
If you're boosted and running a conservative (rich) tune then I don't think there's any reason the motor wouldn't last as long as a stock one, provided you do all the required maintenance (fluid changes, valve adjustments, etc..)
As posted before more power=more stress = more likely to cause a break and FOR SURE MORE likely to wear prematurely.
Here's my BYPASS
Lower the weight of your vehicle as you increase hp. This takes the load off from just about EVERY component from diff to, crank to brakes. Lightening a vehicle a few hundred lbs can really help it out. Consider if our cars weighed 1600lbs how very little load would be put on components. The tires take less weight therefor less traction therefor the diff and brakes aren't stressed bla bla bla.
In general PLAN FOR LESS MILES OUT OF HP INCREASED ENGINE.
-Greg
enthralled- I don't run a gasket but I'm shooting for 400-425whp and it'd be crazy to not do a HG at that point. I think anything past about 8-9psi should be a HG install. Much easier and safer to tune, you don't have to live on the edge of your motor going BOOM all the time if fuel sits in your car and gets old 1 day longer then it should. (not that i'm worried about that but u get the idea) The right way to boost is to lower compression without a doubt, it just makes more sense for the big picture of things. I do like the fact that at 11.1:1 and 7.75psi I have stock power when off the boost but the hp loss from a 2mm/3mm is so minimal it makes it worth while to lower the compression. Lastly the 400whp on dynapack I'd expect, doubtful that's on a mustang roller. I don't really consider dynapack to be real numbers but rather CRANK HP +5%. I feel I'd rather under guess a couple percent on my cars hp when I tell someone then OVER.
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From: THE LAKE DISTRICT BABY!!
Originally Posted by Enthralled,Mar 25 2008, 04:28 PM
My last tune was done at Church. I'll ask him again before i go in for the 4" pulley.
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From: Honolulu
Ditto for the weight reduction comment. In any situation where performance is desired, weight reduction helps. Some argue unless it's 100#+ it's irrelevant but IMO I'll take any reduction up to my personal budget and comfort zone.
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Originally Posted by toofast4yalll,Mar 24 2008, 06:30 AM
You can get 300-350whp on a stock bottom end with just a 3mm head gasket. For 400whp, you will need lower compression pistons, stronger rods, a bigger intercooler, bigger injectors, etc. For my 500whp turbo build, I will be getting custom sleeves, pistons, and rods, an 800hp intercooler, etc. A 300-350whp turbo S2k can be done fairly cheap (relatively speaking of course), and also maintain near factory reliability. Anything more than that and you start buying more lottery tickets, looking for another job, or wondering if you should take out a second mortgage 
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From: Atlanta
I think reliabilty depends totally on driver. i mean there are limits. i put 470whp down and i have a stock motor that is very reliable. now sure if i went out and dogged everyday and didnt due my maintaining of the vehicle liek i should it would fall on its face early. but turbos dont even come on unless you put the car under a load. if you are just puttering back and forth to work, you may never use the turbo, thus making it like you are driving a factory s2000