Fbm stage 2 install questions
Hey guys in the middle of the install of the kit, worked out the exact positioning of the oil relocation and routing of the hosing to make the downpipe fit just curious to see what solutions you guys have done to bypass the coolant for the oil warmer/cooler.
Thinking it would be as simple as getting a U shaped hose and bypassing it that way is not possible because the downpipe is hitting the hard pipe where you would connect the hose (one on timing cover).
Unbolted the alternator to see if I could come to a solution that way and I have the idea that I could get a longer hose and route it that way but I'm worried it's going to obstruct or rub the serpentine belt.
Any ideas or alternative solutions would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
Manny.
Thinking it would be as simple as getting a U shaped hose and bypassing it that way is not possible because the downpipe is hitting the hard pipe where you would connect the hose (one on timing cover).
Unbolted the alternator to see if I could come to a solution that way and I have the idea that I could get a longer hose and route it that way but I'm worried it's going to obstruct or rub the serpentine belt.
Any ideas or alternative solutions would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
Manny.
For some reason the oil cooler won't thread on to the supplied relocation that LJ sent me I'm not too fussed because later down the track I'm going external oil cooler..
It's just that the bypass with the hard line on the timing cover is impossible. So I'm looking at different ways of bypassing.
It's just that the bypass with the hard line on the timing cover is impossible. So I'm looking at different ways of bypassing.
Not sure which kit fbm sell with mine i got it off summitracing.com...took it to a machine
Shop to have it tapped and to have the bolt shortened...also
Had them weld -6an fittings on the oil cooler and the bolt that coolant line goes to the block
my kit was $53...and to tap shorten and well 3 an fittings they charge me
50...i dont have b4 pics but if u want to see after pics ill post some if u want
Shop to have it tapped and to have the bolt shortened...also
Had them weld -6an fittings on the oil cooler and the bolt that coolant line goes to the block
my kit was $53...and to tap shorten and well 3 an fittings they charge me
50...i dont have b4 pics but if u want to see after pics ill post some if u want
You could plug the water lines at the block (and remove the metal pipe that spans the timing cover); this will completely remove the factory water based, oil cooler. You could always run an air based oil cooler (if your relocation kit supports it).
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I am actually at the same point as you with the install manny. Except I am planning on running a Mocal oil/water oil cooler like i had on my KraftWerks setup. I havnt gotten the downpipe installed yet but from what your saying it seems like its gonna be a challege to run all the lines. I wont be able to work on mine for another week and a half, but if you come up with any thing i'll be following this post.
I personally wouldnt feel comfortable elimiating the OEM oil cooler. I mean we are generating MORE heat with a turbo why would we want to elimiate an oil cooler and not replace it with something equal or better?
-Kenneth
I personally wouldnt feel comfortable elimiating the OEM oil cooler. I mean we are generating MORE heat with a turbo why would we want to elimiate an oil cooler and not replace it with something equal or better?
-Kenneth






